Motorsports Village

That CRC beats the HE** out of anything you can spray or fog into an engine. Good stuff!
I would assume you are right about the increased iron. The guys that I'm around in my avation look for that in their oil sample because the planes sit for long periods of time. The cams on Lycoming engines are on top and the oil does not stay on then and they condensate and rust. Same thing would happen to race car engines stored for a while. The use of alky would accelerate the formation of rust because the alky carries & attracts moisture, esp if it is mixed with the oil. Shell makes an additive for avation that helps stop the rusting of the lifters and cam. I wonder if it would help in race car engines being stored over the winter???

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www.adgersperf.com

Adger, Or anyone that wants to share what you or could you do before winter besides fresh oil and fog it and turn it over once and a wile???

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running E85
Best ET 8.07
Best MPH 170.71
Barry

I usually pull mine apart.
This is what I tell the customers that leave it together.
Pull headers and open each ex valve and bathe the port with CRC. Then fog the intake whil turning over w/starter and then pull the rockers. Re install the headers and cap off.. likewise on the intake. Drain the oil and put fresh oil in it just before you start fogging it. Roll over once or twice a month. Pt a heat lamp under it and keep it on all the time. no friend of condensation.... Of Course have all the water out, Don't let it freeze.

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www.adgersperf.com

I figured the timing chain would have all kinds of slop in it. This is my Cloyes true roller after 325 licks.



Other parts looked good, too.





There is some excessive wear on the cam lobes. The pictures I took of that were not good and couldn't be posted. WE'll be talking to Bullet after the first of the year.

I spoke to Darin Morgan about my cylinder heads. After giving him the particulars of my engine and it's intended usage he suggested I not alter the heads. Just freshen the valve job and go. He a;so suggested I got to 1.8 rocker arms, which I will do.

Bruce, I would replace that chain set with a machined gear on the cam instead of that cast gear..I had one to start to loose the tips of the teeth found them stuck to the magnet on the drain plug.. It was a PIA to replace it in the car...

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running E85
Best ET 8.07
Best MPH 170.71
Barry

Actually Barry, we're going to replace it with a belt drive.

A belt drive is worth every penny just for the ease of cam timing adjustment, especially if it's going on the dyno. We are able to change cam position faster than changing jets.

Rick

I'm surprised that chain was as tight as it was. Kevin wasn't. All in all, the only place I was concerned was with the cam lobe wear.

My plan is to work out cam timing on the dyno. We're going to use the newer Jesel solid upper belt gear. We won't be fiddling with this that once the dyno session is over.

In all honesty, I don't expect anything we do with this freshen will make this engine any quicker than it was. I'm just looking to make it more durable and enhance it's ability to go longer before the next freshen up job.

If you want to increase the life of the motor before rebuilds you should use a gas bench. I can tell you an engine that contains less than 300ppm of HC in the exhaust stream will last twice as long as one with more than 800ppm. You need a tool that can measure the HC and a wideband is not the appropriate tool.
Remaining HC concentration in the exhaust stream is a very fine detail of tuning that can be below 300 or above 800 etc just by a fine detail half size jet change or a small timing change. It wont show up on a WB.

Well, all the parts are here, except the head gaskets from Cometic.. I expect machine work will commence shortly. I had planned on not assembling but, I will as it turns out. Just not here at home.

I'm a bit nervous about this as I'm a detail guy and the first race is Feb 15th in Gainesville. Rush jobs never turn out well.