Login    Forum    Search    FAQ

Board index » Racing Forum » Drive Train, Suspension and Brakes




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 24 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
 Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 5:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:28 am
Posts: 140
Location: N.W.
If you're heading north for trans work ..... http://hutchtrans.com/shop/

For a pump puller, you could use a small slide-hammer. I just went to H. F. and it worked out pretty well.


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:51 pm 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:38 am
Posts: 11804
Location: Coming At Ya!
Pump puller? How about 2 3/8 bolts about 4 inches long and a claw hammer!! =; I have those pieces in stock! ;-)

_________________
Big Boyz Toyz!

Image

Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.

William Pitt, British Prime-Minister (1759-1806)


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:47 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:28 am
Posts: 140
Location: N.W.
Ken0069 wrote:
Pump puller? How about 2 3/8 bolts about 4 inches long and a claw hammer!! =; I have those pieces in stock! ;-)

LOL

I went to the cheapy slide deal, even though I MAY have tried a few "back yard" ideas too =;


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:23 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 4:44 pm
Posts: 1423
Location: Clawson, Mi.
Ken0069 wrote:
Pump puller? How about 2 3/8 bolts about 4 inches long and a claw hammer!! =; I have those pieces in stock! ;-)



Hey Ken,
Your idea worked like a charm, thanks for the tip. I only used a couple of 2" long bolts and it popped the pump right out. Helps to have a new case too \:D/

Well, aside from the normal gold dust in the pan, the only thing I could figure out was, the pin on my cable, and the hole on the shift lever was a little loose with too small of a cotter pin, so one of you guys was right, I am pretty sure the adjustment of the cable was off just enough to cause the parking pawl to not go all the way into the channel, so I got a new bad a$$ push/pull pin for it, fits the hole perfectly and will be just fine, plus I also changed out my 9 yr. old cable too which was a little tight. So, it all should be good and I only did one mod, I added a pipe plug at the priming valve as the disc that holds the valve in was 90 deg. to the bore and trying to get out past the roll pin, so, made some threads, cleaned the pump up and put her all back together and botta bing, botta boom done deal.
Now I am just waiting for my new input shaft. :-

_________________
Image
Thanks To;
DART
Motor City Muscle
Induction-Solutions
Fuelab Fuel System
D & S Engines
My Wife & Family




R.i.p. Doug Cunningham, gone, not forgotten.


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 12:18 pm 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:38 am
Posts: 11804
Location: Coming At Ya!
John I don't want to sound like a nag but when you put the new stuff on and go to adjust the shifter, do your adjustments so that everything is in DRIVE, ie, tranny and shifter and adjust the cable to fit the lever in that location. Reason for this is if that setting is off there is a possibility that the spool won't be in the proper location and if that happens, you'll likely burn up a set of high gear clutches from the pressure loss. If you've got the correct shifter arm and your cable is in the proper hole on that shifter arm then everything else will fall in place if you do the adjustment for the Drive location.

_________________
Big Boyz Toyz!

Image

Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.

William Pitt, British Prime-Minister (1759-1806)


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 2:03 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:28 am
Posts: 140
Location: N.W.
I always thought/read you adjust in neutral, not drive.


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 4:22 pm 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:38 am
Posts: 11804
Location: Coming At Ya!
J_6961 wrote:
I always thought/read you adjust in neutral, not drive.


If DRIVE is correct and you're in the correct hole in the shift lever, then everything else will be correct! If you try to run it from a neutral setting and the linkage is in the wrong hole, then the high gear clutches "may" suffer the consequences.

The high gear method, (and probably the neutral method also) will show if the cable is in the incorrect hole in the shift lever because the detent in the shifter and the transmission linkage won't match. I won't say you're wrong, but if someone adjusts it in DRIVE, at least they won't burn up a clutch pack to find out they did it wrong the first time.

Agreed? :-k ;-)

_________________
Big Boyz Toyz!

Image

Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.

William Pitt, British Prime-Minister (1759-1806)


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2011 1:28 am
Posts: 140
Location: N.W.
Ken0069 wrote:
if someone adjusts it in DRIVE, at least they won't burn up a clutch pack to find out they did it wrong the first time.

Agreed? :-k ;-)

That may be the case, I've just never done it that way.


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 7:12 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 4:44 pm
Posts: 1423
Location: Clawson, Mi.
Your not Horse beating at all Ken, I don't know it all, and the B&M package says to adj. the cable end in high gear, and then back at park and the rest of the positions, and to go back & forth until the end goes into the shift arm in all the shift locations and then call it good. I think my problem was I had too small of a cotter pin in, and it had room to move and cause the pawl to not be fully engaged. I did notice again(been a long time since I saw this back a few years) but the multiple holes are for different shifter brands, one for a Hurst shifter, a B&M shifter and one other I can't remember.
I will definetly be sure to check it in all gear positions, plus I have a new clip for it so it should be like new again.
Thanks for your input. ;-) =D>

_________________
Image
Thanks To;
DART
Motor City Muscle
Induction-Solutions
Fuelab Fuel System
D & S Engines
My Wife & Family




R.i.p. Doug Cunningham, gone, not forgotten.


Top 
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 24 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

Board index » Racing Forum » Drive Train, Suspension and Brakes


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

 
 

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to: