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 Post Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 1:00 pm 
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NO HEADERS FROM HEADMAN UNLESS I CARRY THE CAR TO ALPHARETTA, GA SO THEY CAN BUILD THEM ON THE CAR??? O:) [-( ](*,) :-({|= [-X

Just got off the phone with Russ at Racetech down in Burlington, Nc and he wants $1500 for plain uncoated steel headers if I supply the flanges and he too will require that I bring the car to him? O:) O:) WTF O:) [-( ](*,) :-k

Anyone want to buy a nice dragster? [-(

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 Post Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 2:13 pm 
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Just take them off the camaro and turn them upside down! \:D/ \:D/

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 Post Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 2:46 pm 
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WR169 wrote:
Just take them off the camaro and turn them upside down! \:D/ \:D/


Spread port bolt pattern is not symmetrical and can't be turned over like a regular SBC pattern! [-X

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 Post Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 2:51 pm 
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I bought Fab-Shop headers for mine. ~$1300 coated w/slip on collectors and spring retainers.

I suspect that's too much for a cheap-ass like you so how about this nice do-it-yourself kit...garage sale priced. Buy the flanges you need instead of the standard sbc flange and you're good to go. Priced just right at $149.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage-Sale-SBC-Dragster-Headers,50378.html

Rick


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 Post Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:56 pm 
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Wrong tube size Rick! But thanks anyway. ;-) FYI I tried to buy a kit from Headman but it's a no go on the downswept stepped headers. Assembled only from them.

Contacted Fab Shop a while ago about building a set the way I want them, ie, no coating, standard 4" collector and I supply the 3/8" head flanges to make sure the header ports are in the right place. Dunno if they will go for that or not but you never know until you ask. ;-)

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 Post Posted: Thu Sep 01, 2011 8:54 pm 
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Good luck. It was almost a grand to have the ones made on Jake's S10. O:) And that was with the kit out of Jegs.

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 Post Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 5:16 am 
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My $1400 dollar Fab-Shop headers..... :-
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 Post Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 5:19 am 
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Ken can you cut off the flange's on your headers tight to the flange and swap the flange and weld them back up??? Or
use a new flange???

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 Post Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 6:43 am 
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No Barry, the old door car headers will not work on a dragster. Too close to the block and won't clear the dragster frame. Will contact Dynatech today to see if they will build them but they don't even list an SBC dragster header on their website.

Also looked at Sthal's design but they look like hobbled together crap as they only put a turn out bend on a sprint car header. The original idea behind the downswept dragster header was to take some of the bends out and to be able to use larger radius bends to make them flow beter. Some claim to have found up to 30 HP going from upswept to downswept models.

http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20New%20Drag.htm

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 Post Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 10:07 am 
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Got a call from the Fab Shop just now and Mike is sending me a pair of their flanges to see if they will work with my heads. He also says that I can buy them with no coating on them so that's a plus also as it will save me $250 on the cost.

Now I guess I can get back to trying to get that damn nut off the pinion coupler!! [-(

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 Post Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2011 6:45 pm 
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Well, didn't get anything done on the pinion nut today but I did do this!

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Image \:D/ Image \:D/ =;

Worked on the wiring around the engine and got most of that stuff done and checked out to make sure it works. Just another piece of that puzzle. ;-)

Ennywho, I was getting real depressed over the header deal and while I'm still not out of the woods on that yet, I think I can see a light at the end of the tunnel. Faye and I were discussing all this last night and I told her that had I known that the header deal was going to be like this, I'd have just continued to run the Camaro until the end of the season. Then again, hind site is always 20/20! ;-)

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 Post Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 11:41 am 
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Got some real problems with the throttle cable/K&R Pro Stage. That air cylinder is fastened on the end of the throttle cable and it makes it 19.5 inches long from the cable retainer to the throttle hook up on my carb linkage. The cable I have is 8ft long, which presents more problems. I looked at putting that linkage up the front of the engine from bottom up but that won't work with a single carb. Only other alternative is to get a longer cable and loop it around the back end and bring it up on the left side where the original linkage was mounted. Only thing I'm concerned about is that the cable will have to be 14ft long but doing it that way will allow me to change back and forth between the dual carb and single carb intakes without linkage problems.

The last car I had was a 235" car and that extra 10" between the engine and roll cage made a big difference in how this stuff is working out. :-k

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 Post Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 5:42 am 
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Ken,

My throttle cable is 14 feet long. Raps around the back of the engine. I have a Dedenbear inline stop for a slc. Use a Goza bracket that mounts to my scoop mount. Works good. Bob


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 Post Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 9:44 am 
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Thanks for the info Bob. I just ordered a 14 footer for the car so now I got to make a mount, which I can do using the short cable for now.

That first dragster I had had an Enderle hat on it and the cable came up the front of the engine to that linkage. When I put the dual carb top on that manifold I just used one of the linkage arms all the way up front on the shaft end and basically ran the carb linkage from the same location as the hat linkage but back then I didn't have a Pro Start to deal with. The second dragster I had used a straight run cable and the carb/linkage had to be mounted backwards but that was a 235" car and had more room up front to make the turns and didn't have a Pro Start either.

Hopefully this one will work for me. ;-)

Thanks

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 Post Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 1:26 pm 
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Ken,

Was thinking while mowing the lawn. How about mount your inline controller at the throttle pedal? I have a few done like that. Mainly guys with fuel injection. It should work with the carb setup. The controller does not know what end of the cable it is mounted to. Just have to rewire for the different location. Bob


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