Login    Forum    Search    FAQ

Board index » Racing Forum » Under Construction




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 266 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 18  Next
Author Message
 Post Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:03 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:35 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Westminster, MD
Hello all,

It's been a long time since I've posted here. My old computers hard drive took a crash and I lost all my favorites and just found this one again.

Anyway, quick update. Two years ago I built a new 582 bbc for the Malibu which took the car from mid 9's to 8.50's, all motor.

This winter the car is getting a major chassis overhaul. The old 8.50 mild steel cage was cutout and I'm installing a 25.3 legal cage/chassis. The 12 bolt was recently sold and a new TRZ chromoly 9" housing will go in it's place (With all Strange 40 spline, gun drilled internals). New Kirkey seats, VFN fiberglass dash, Glasstek doors, Magnafuel 500 pump/filter setup, and Afco double adjustable coil overs.

Here's come pics of the rebuild process.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Merry Christmas everyone!

Todd

_________________
Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:22 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:24 pm
Posts: 5071
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
Todd that looks Killer \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ How much weight has it gained with all those bars? Also did you see the new rule from NHRA about drive shaft tubes and bars? It was put in place since Barb Nesbitt have the drive shaft come apart and almost beat her to death. She is doing much better now. But NHRA saw the issue and responded. Maybe this will save you some work later.

SECTION 4 – NHRA SUMMIT RACING SERIES
SECTION 4B – ADVANCED E.T.
Page 10
DRIVETRAIN: 2
DRIVELINE (December 13, 2010)
Beginning Jan. 1, 2012 all full-bodied vehicles, where the OEM floor has been
removed, each end of driveshaft must have round 360-degree driveshaft loops
within 6 inches of U-joints. Additionally, driveshaft must be covered by 360-
degree tube, covering the front U-joint and extending rearward a minimum 12
inches. Minimum thickness of tube is .050-inch chromoly or titanium. Driveshaft
tube must utilize a minimum of four attachment points to the chassis, either
bolted with minimum 5/16 SAE bolts or welded or 1/4-inch push/pull pins. See
General Regulations 2:4.
SECTION 5

_________________
Steve

6.7772 @ 101.51 1/8th 10.747 @ 122.24 1/4

Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:45 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:35 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Westminster, MD
My calculations show approx 15 lbs of weight gain going from the .134" wall 10 point mild steel to the chromoly 25.3.

I did see that rule, but did not look real deep into if it applied to my car which still has the stock floors in the front and driveshaft tunnel area.

I did think about trying to install the driveshaft tube in the stock tunnel after hearing of her accident.

_________________
Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 9:37 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:24 pm
Posts: 5071
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
Wow 15* with all that extra tube. You got to love chrome moly \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ When I re-looked your pictures I saw the stock type floor in it. I've been thinking about another loop on the wagon also. The guy that owned it before us had a trans come apart on the street and the drive shaft had beat up the floor pretty good. It put a couple of cuts in it.

_________________
Steve

6.7772 @ 101.51 1/8th 10.747 @ 122.24 1/4

Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 9:44 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:35 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Westminster, MD
Here are my measurements & calculations/estimate.

The old cage weighed 140#, plus what ever the Chris Alston's clevis style swing out kit weighed (kinda heavy being solid steel).

From my calculations, the completed 25.3 cage will weigh right at 175#.

Now, the new cage incorperates both a built in trans crossmember as well as tubular driveshaft loop. The previous driveshaft loop and crossmember removed weighed 11#.

175 - 11 = 164#.

Now, I also removed the upper coil spring pockets although I didn't weigh them, I estimate they were around 4# each.

164 - 4 - 4 = 156 #net weight.

So the old cage was 140#, new one sits at around 156, so the gain is approx 16# heavier.

Other weight reduction things not associated with the cage are:

stock dash removed for the VFN fiberglass. 15# - 5# = 10# loss
remove rear floor wood storage compartment = 12# loss
replace Bassani mufflers with Coast Fab approx 3#

So these small items account for an additional 25# of weight loss.

I just remembered one area of weight added I did not take into consideration. The 11 gauge, .125" thick plate used to box the frame.

I just found a weight/sq-ft for this material and is calculates out to 14 lbs of material for both frame rails.

The car is also getting fiberglass doors and lexan door windows. Stock doors weigh 90 lbs each (with crash bars already removed). I weighed a Glasstek door I recently completed for a 4th gen Firebird and that door assembly weighed 18 lbs complete. I weighed one of the Glasstek f/g doors (bare) and it was around 15 lbs, so I'd say the completed door would b in the 22 to 25 lb range complete. Wish it was as light at the Firebird door (same basic physical size). The f/g door should still knock a solid 125 lbs off the car.

_________________
Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 1:16 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:24 pm
Posts: 5071
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
That G body should fly \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ Those mufflers look killer. I bet that cross bar will get pretty hot O:) Are you going to put a turn down? I don't think you can get the frame any stronger. =;

_________________
Steve

6.7772 @ 101.51 1/8th 10.747 @ 122.24 1/4

Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 8:43 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:35 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Westminster, MD
Next little update.

The TRZ housing showed up Christmas eve and today I was able to fabricate and install the back brace as well as machining and installing the lower shock mounts. The housing is mocked up and I'm ready to bend up the tubes for the back portion of the cage.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

_________________
Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:11 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:24 pm
Posts: 5071
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
TRZ does Awesome work and so do you \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ That rear looks bullet proof. I like how you set up the anti roll or at least thats what it looks like. I kind of have a feeling you won't have any body flex ;-)

_________________
Steve

6.7772 @ 101.51 1/8th 10.747 @ 122.24 1/4

Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:23 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:11 pm
Posts: 2749
Location: Shepherdsville, KY
I don't see an anti roll bar there Steve. I think you're looking at the shock mounts with a strut for mocking the mounts. Looks like the adjustable brackets for the shocks will be on the top. I've never seen one set up like that.

_________________
Chuck Woloch

Chuck's Automotive
Full line Computech dealer
chucksautomotive@yahoo.com
Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:27 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:24 pm
Posts: 5071
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
#-o Now that you mention it =; That is why you are a chassis guy ;-) I hope you had a good christmas.

_________________
Steve

6.7772 @ 101.51 1/8th 10.747 @ 122.24 1/4

Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 12:21 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:36 pm
Posts: 718
Location: Blanco, Texas
I've never seen the shock adjustment at the top, I may have to try that on my Nova, I like how it cleans up the bottom. Have you done this on other cars?

Very nice work Todd,

_________________
Donee


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 5:39 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:35 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Westminster, MD
Thanks guys.

Yes, the shock adjuster brackets will be up top. I don't much care for coil over brackets hanging down low under the car.

The anti-roll is the old Wolfe Racecraft I cut out of the car. It will get remounted inside the trunk instead of under the car.

_________________
Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 1:27 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2007 4:44 pm
Posts: 1423
Location: Clawson, Mi.
I didn't know you worked on chassis's Todd O:) but VERY, VERY nice work you are doing for sure. I take it your retaining the stock dimension rear suspension for the stock suspension type class?, other wise I would see a whole different rear setup with the standard 4 link and coilovers. So far you have done an execellent job =D> =D> =D>

Are you using the same size rear tires and wheels then too?, looks like it from the tubs not being cut out :-k

If I were you, like Steve mentioned, I would do what EVER it takes to put a drive shaft tube in your chassis too, I would really hate to read about you in a similar situation as Barb was in after doing all this work. ;-) Rumor that I heard was the chassis shop(which I won't mention) used material of the smaller sizes and that contributed to her accident and all the damage She recieved due to an inferior chassis build in the area of failure. She got hurt pretty bad and we need to keep All racers safe at higher speeds too, YOU INCLUDED! so think about it very hard.

Again, your doing a GREAT job Todd, Kudo's to you. =D> =D>

More pics needed as progress continues.
How do the VFN parts look that you have gotten & worked with so far, are they worth the price vs say, Harwood, or other glass companies? Thanks.

John

_________________
Image
Thanks To;
DART
Motor City Muscle
Induction-Solutions
Fuelab Fuel System
D & S Engines
My Wife & Family




R.i.p. Doug Cunningham, gone, not forgotten.


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 2:39 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 8:20 pm
Posts: 5852
Location: N.J.
John, VFN and Glasstech is top of the chart's IMO...

_________________
Image
running E85
Best ET 8.07
Best MPH 170.71
Barry


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 5:47 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:35 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Westminster, MD
Elkyman wrote:
I didn't know you worked on chassis's Todd O:) but VERY, VERY nice work you are doing for sure. I take it your retaining the stock dimension rear suspension for the stock suspension type class?, other wise I would see a whole different rear setup with the standard 4 link and coilovers. So far you have done an execellent job =D> =D> =D>

Are you using the same size rear tires and wheels then too?, looks like it from the tubs not being cut out :-k

If I were you, like Steve mentioned, I would do what EVER it takes to put a drive shaft tube in your chassis too, I would really hate to read about you in a similar situation as Barb was in after doing all this work. ;-) Rumor that I heard was the chassis shop(which I won't mention) used material of the smaller sizes and that contributed to her accident and all the damage She recieved due to an inferior chassis build in the area of failure. She got hurt pretty bad and we need to keep All racers safe at higher speeds too, YOU INCLUDED! so think about it very hard.

Again, your doing a GREAT job Todd, Kudo's to you. =D> =D>

More pics needed as progress continues.
How do the VFN parts look that you have gotten & worked with so far, are they worth the price vs say, Harwood, or other glass companies? Thanks.

John


Hey John,

The car is remaining small tire, stock suspension. I'm staying with a 10" rim, but going from a 6" back space to a 2 7/8" back space rim. Rear will be narrowed accordingly.

I am notching the rear frame rails to the inner skin, hence the reason for the new tube inner rear frame rails. I will be able to go from a 295 drag radial to the wider 315 as well as fitting a 10.5 x 29.5 bias if needed.

I prefer Glasstek fiberglass the most, but VFN is real close in quality. Glasstek has a better system for producing parts meaning you have a MUCh shorter wait time. What they do is have glass laid up in the molds waiting for an order. When an order comes in, they get the molds out, pop out the piece, trim and assemble, then ship. before the molds get put back they lay up more glass and put it on the shelf to cure and wait for the next order. Much more efficient setup IMO.

I am considering the driveshaft tube right now. I do need to watch how much safety gear is added to the car for weight reasons running N/A. I also would like to equip the car with an onboard fire suppression system.

BTW, I'm a die hard stock suspension guy and don't see myself changing that anytime soon.

_________________
Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 266 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 18  Next

Board index » Racing Forum » Under Construction


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

 
 

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron