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 Post Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:04 pm 
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Emulsion Holes and note that this block only has 2. Most aftermarket blocks have many more but 2 is all we used in our conversions. If you use an aftermarket block, try to use locations what match those in this picture.

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 Post Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:05 pm 
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Idle Jets

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 Post Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:07 pm 
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Air bleed configuration.


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 Post Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 9:13 pm 
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Scott, thanks for the pics. it looks like i'll also use #1 & 3 emulsion holes as the #1 are almost dead center with the booster pump feed hole and #3 are just above center on the power valve hole.
Could you measure your booster ID? They appear to be the same as mine.
I also see you removed those red stickers from the bowls 8-[


Mark


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 Post Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:24 pm 
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The red stickers have been gone. It went to David Cook after Mr Williams was an azz on the phone with me. David did all the polishing and coloring and the 3 circuit blocks which still didn't correct the problem but he is one of the many that doesn't buy into the 2 circuit deal.


I'll measure the boosters tomorrow. They came from this page.
http://www.blp.com/pdf/pg7.pdf


I found my notes from Tuner.

.026 on Emulsion holes 1 & 3 (#71 drill)
Plug 2,4, & 5

Idle jet .040
Idle air .065
Tslot .062
Main air bleed .026
Angle channel .160

Now those numbers are for 422" of motor and oxygenated fuel.
The idle jet will probably be different for your combo.


Last edited by Scott Smith on Sun Feb 10, 2008 2:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 3:33 pm 
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Here is the info I got cut and pasted from another site.  This is for an 8896 old style 1050 Dominator that I put together from a main body Alteredoug gave me and some junk parts I got off of bptcarbs on fleabay.

Quote:
With the straight boosters, jet it 91 pri and 96 sec with about a .082” or .086” PVCR unless it has a flat plug in the 4150 metering block main well, in which case .093” on the PVCR. Use a Hi-Flow power valve. 91 and 96 should be just a touch rich. Plug the PV in the secondary and use jet extensions. Make them of 11/32” brass tubing. My local True Value hardware store has brass tubing in 1/32” steps from 1/16” to 1”.

With annular boosters 82-84 PMJ .086 to .093 PVCR, #65 Hi-Flow power valve, 95-97 SMJ (plug PV – use jet extensions that slip over the jet), .025”P&SMAB, .052 to .063 T-slot jet P&S (10-32 set-screw), .040” IJ P&S, PIAB .076 to start but anywhere between .063 and .082 is usually the range, .067 SIAB, .159 angle channel, .169 booster pin. .059 TSJ to start with .076 PIAB should run it OK if you have to break in a cam.

Also, ran one of these 1050 annular carbs with 89PMJ, .078 PVCR, 94 SMJ on a 427 cu. in. SBC w/ Dart heats, .780 lift roller, Victor intake, etc. in a `64 Chevelle with a `glide, 3200 lbs. and it went 9.80 at 136. .055”TSJ, .076” IAB. Used the .078 PVCR because I intended to sneak up on it but we just went there with the jet and it ran fine. Clean plugs on the return road where it formerly came back with black plugs when it was in 3-circuit configuration. We played around with the jetting, richer and leaner on both ends, on this one until it ran a good as it could on a day with 90 deg. 37% hum. 29.66 and 2186 DA, my notes say. I would have gotten the DA from someone: I don’t pay it as much attention as I should.

Standard Holley 4150 metering blocks with two .028” main well bleeds and a .028” kill bleed in the angle channel, idle jet in the location next to the power valve. It’s almost necessary that the T-slots come down to the bottom edge of the closed butterflies. The 4500’s seem to be random in the quality control of that dimension.

Please note that at a small amount of throttle load the T-slot is in charge and you can’t hurt anything by making it too lean.  Experiment with it so you just get it lean enough to be stupid and then richen it gradually until it runs good. The opposite of the way I like to do the WOT.


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 Post Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:01 pm 
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Ok guy's i have the idle jets drilled, tapped & installed the TSJ are installed.
I intended to use the 6-32 set screws for the emulsions but the holes are threaded deep into the well and i think the setscrews go in too deep. Can you use loctite safely without the setscrews being seated or do i need to order the emulsion bleed to go here? Emulsions  and the airbleed change and i'm ready to fire this pig up.
Oh, my linkage is 1-1 is this ok or does it need to be progressive?
Did  you guy's leave the squirter nozzles the same?


Thanks, Mark


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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:46 am 
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I'm pretty sure the loctite will eventually soften and let loose if exposed to gas or alcohol.

If you're using 6-32 set screws with an allen wrench to tighten, you may be able to put a center punch in the allen wrench hole and tap it to mushroom it a little, just enough to snug it up.  You definately don't want to go to deep into the well, as it will affect the flows.

If that doesn't work, you can start with a 6-32 brass machine screw with a round head for a flat blade screwdriver, and turn down the diameter of the head to leave a very small lip, and shorten the head as much as possible. You will want to keep the overall length as short as possible, and all of them the same. If you don't have access to a lathe, a drill and a file will do the job. You may have to deepen the screwdriver slot.

Hope this helps.
Can't wait till you fire it up!
Isn't this fun!?

Donee


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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:52 am 
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Thanks Donee, i'll try the punch deal if that doesn't work i'll get the screws.



Mark


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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:14 am 
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Mark,
How about some pictures of those holes. Are you sure your not looking at the counter bore before the main well? What i have seen with glasses is there is a small hole at the bottom of that large hole.


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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 4:07 pm 
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I'm rusty at the photo posting but here goes.
The quickfuel blocks are tapped all the way into the main well and their bleeds have have a flange on the head simular too some air bleeds i've seen.
Do i remove the upper idle jet and just leave the hole open or leave the jet also?
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That wasn't too hard :-

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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:19 pm 
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Those Are air bleed screws bubba.  =;

You could get those in blanks or stake 10-32s like mentioned above. Guess their is more than one way to build a mouse trap.  #-o  #-o

Just remove those idle jets from the top. No plugging needed.

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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:46 pm 
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Where did you guy's end up on pump cams & squirters ?
I'm just full of questions aren't i ? :-k  #-o   :-#

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:29 pm 
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35 squirters and yellow cams. Nothing special. In fact it didn't seem to matter what squirter was in it. It worked great once I dumped the 3rd circuit.


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 Post Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 11:20 am 
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I used .035 squirters and the regular pump cams.  I guess I still need to pull the bowl and block off mine as they are "regular" Holley parts.

If memory serves all my E holes were .028.  I'll get a couple of pics and post them soon.


Last edited by Ken0069 on Wed Feb 13, 2008 8:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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