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 Post Posted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:35 pm
Posts: 219
Location: Westminster, MD
Picked up the parts from chrome today.

Pics make them look alot nicer than they do closeup. They were done in a nickel/chrome process skipping the copper and buffing. Any flaws show through since the copper fill is not there, but for race car stuff it looks decent and is alot more affordable. Once the car is assembled, it usually looks pretty nice, not show perfect, but nice.

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly49.jpg

I also had the shop hard coat anodize the motor & mideplate black. With the car silver and the engine all silver, I felt some contrast was needed. I will eventually have the valve covers done the same way.

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly50.jpg

Once were past Christmas, I'll hopefully be able to get back to work on some real assembly.

More to come...

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 Post Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 2:56 pm 
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Definitely showing some decent progress now. Most of the major mechanical pieces are in place, plenty of small detail items to attend to.

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly51.jpg

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly52.jpg

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly53.jpg

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly54.jpg

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly55.jpg

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly56.jpg

I have a basic rear suspension setup thanks to Mike from TRZ. I also spoke with Eric at Afco on a couple things and have decided to send the front shocks back for some upgraded valving. By our conversation, I think the changes will make a big difference in calming the front end down and allowing me to remove the wheelie bars.

Once I get the front shocks back, I'll put the car on the ground in an attempt to get the car out for carpet installation.

Need to also get the rest of the sheetmetal parts back so I can get the body put together.

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 Post Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 10:39 pm 
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Location: Tell City, IN
You are doing a FINE job at this build. That is the best looking Malibu I have seen. Great Detail and it was done right. Great Job! \:D/ \:D/ =D> =D> =D> =D>

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6.11@110 Gas
1.3718 Sixty Foot with the rear wheels Gas

6.07@110 on Alcohol Injection with a 4-link 4-6-12
Best 60' 1.2537 Alcohol Injection 4-29-11
Thru the Mufflers!!


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 Post Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:53 pm 
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Location: Westminster, MD
Hmmm, decisions, decisions...

Holeshot Sun Star

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/wheel2.jpg

Mickey Thompson ET Drag

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/wheel1.jpg

I also have a third set of brand new M/T ET Drag, but in 15 x 12 I picked up to cut down to 10" and beadlock.

Front wheels will be existing M/T ET Drag.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 12:20 am 
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I vote for the 1st set...

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6.11@110 Gas
1.3718 Sixty Foot with the rear wheels Gas

6.07@110 on Alcohol Injection with a 4-link 4-6-12
Best 60' 1.2537 Alcohol Injection 4-29-11
Thru the Mufflers!!


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 Post Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 10:57 pm 
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Location: Westminster, MD
Pedals are done.

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly57.jpg

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly58.jpg

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 6:22 pm 
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Location: Westminster, MD
Brakes have been bled, driveshaft sensor installed & wired, pressure transducers mounted, vacuum sensor mounted, main fuel line up front completed, brake light wire corrected, shock bumpers cut down and shocks remounted inverted.

Have the stock core support mocked up taking measurements to fabricated a chromoly tubular replacement. Oh yea, the new smaller/lighter radiator/fan assembly came in this week.

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly59.jpg

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly60.jpg

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly61.jpg

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:24 pm 
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Location: N.J.
Thinking your going to have an issue with those transducers so close to the
plug wire's. It will cause static on your graphs...

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running E85
Best ET 8.07
Best MPH 170.71
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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:34 pm 
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Location: Westminster, MD
Beretta wrote:
Thinking your going to have an issue with those transducers so close to the
plug wire's. It will cause static on your graphs...


Don't know where else to put them. They don't want them mounted to the engine due to vibration damaging the sensor.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:40 pm 
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Looks like you have lots of room to the right or left...I have my Drive shaft wire 7" away from
the coil wire and got static. I replace the coil wire and then got some glass rap for it and still
had an issue until I moved it to the other side of the car...

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running E85
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Best MPH 170.71
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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:58 pm 
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I just read the paperwork and it says minimum of 3" from heat or HT ignition wires.

Guess I gotta look at other mounting locations. f**%.

I hate extra holes in the firewall. ](*,)

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 10:24 pm 
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Sensors have been removed. I just put the button head screws back in the holes. #-o

Only other place I can see to mount them is above the master cylinder and get wires & hoses to them.

Was trying to hide the sensors from view a little behind the valve cover.

Grrr...Oh well, let's try this again.

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 Post Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:51 pm 
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Had a talk with Marc Erickson at Autometer this afternoon. He's not too concerned about the sensors that close to the distributor & wires, especially being the wires are suppression wires.

He said to keep them away from the ignition box and coil.

He recommended trying them where they are mounted and testing the system by recording with the engine running. He said if there was a problem it would show up on the digital channels as spikes, say in the driveshaft sensor on the graph.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 6:46 pm 
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Tried to have a productive weekend working on the car last evening and this afternoon. I wound up spending that time doing some rewire work on the power & ground cables.

Some of the professionals that saw the pics suggested I install a dedicated ground cable front to back in the car to attach all the ground circuits as the chromoly tubing & stock metal is not a sufficient ground plane.

Anyway, turned out to be quite a bit of work and was difficult to make the grounds look neat with as many connections there wound up being. Turned out alright I guess, but this case, form must follow function, so a properly grounded electrical system was more important than neatness.

The car previously had 1/0 power cable which I removed and replaced with 2 gauge cable and ran an identical size 2 gauge for the ground front to back.

In the passenger kick panel area I installed a pass-thru stud to allow me to ground the engine block & cylinder heads to the main ground cable. The block was tough to figure out since the diaper completely covers the block to the bottom of the heads. Passing from the frame to the block with the cable took some head scratching.

I also made up a harness leading up front to power the fan, head lights, parking lights and their respective ground circuits. I terminated that harness at the front of the frame rails with a 5 pin round Delphi weatherpak connector. I'll finish the rest of that once the tubular core support is built and I can install the front clip for the last time.

Other than the forward harness, the only other electrical components that need completing is connecting a couple data logger sensors to the engine.

Next project will be making a jig so I can then build the tubular chromoly core support.

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly65.jpg

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/10secBu/assembly66.jpg

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:06 pm 
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Location: Westminster, MD
Just had this forwarded to me in an e-mail.

http://www.dragzine.com/news/todd-geislers-beautiful-malibu-gets-an-extreme-makeover/

Didn't know anything about it...pretty cool.

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