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 Post Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:16 am 
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Looks good John pretty soon you get to have the fun of keeping it straight until you get it figured out ;-) Man those are some big tires O:) Your going to have to build the motor bigger just to turn them =;

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 Post Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:07 am 
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That is why I have a 200 cheater kit getting ready in the wings... ;-) I had my cam timing adv. 2 degrees and I put it back to straight up, and that alone will put back the torque in the lower band, and, with the 10.5 tire, I was limited to about 3800 rpm's on the hit, and now I can go up to 4800 rpm's so that also will put it right behind the flash of the convertor, it will be interesting to see how the Elky responds. And it looks like I will be going to a 32 x 14 tire due to body restrictions, I really don't want to cut the body up right just yet even though it needs a pass side rear quarter due to rust. Someday it will almost be right.... Thanks also for the comments, I am going nuts not racing so I need a fresh log book to start the new data entry for this backhalf, then I can compair to the stock setup and see my loss's or gains per the backhalf and verify if it was worth it, although a big tire car is always cool looking =; =;



WR169 wrote:
Looks good John pretty soon you get to have the fun of keeping it straight until you get it figured out ;-) Man those are some big tires O:) Your going to have to build the motor bigger just to turn them =;

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Last edited by Elkyman on Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:55 am 
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Do you still have the logbook I sent ya?

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 Post Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 5:46 pm 
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WR169 wrote:
Do you still have the logbook I sent ya?


You sent ME a log book????? :-k don't remember getting one from you, are you sure you sent it to me??? and I do have a new one from Summit, I love there log book too, way better than Jeg's...imo

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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 6:52 pm 
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Hey guys,

Here is a few more pics of the elky's backhalf work. The reason my chassis guy is putting the "X" brace into the two main roll cage bars is, it will be very difficult to make the bed cover with 6 different holes, so he incorporated it into the two main hoop bars. There will be more support bars from the two upper 4 link bars going thru the bed hedder tying into the main cage. A few more support bars will go from the same bars to other areas. I plan on adding a F/C cage around me and adding a bar above my head going over to the right A pilar to mount the chute handel as the 135mph rule which I have been going a little above, requires to have a chute, so more money to find somewhere. I am going to 14 x 32's with a stiff sidewall M/T slick to keep the tires off the lower edges of the fenders without cutting too much off, but I will see how it goes once the tires come. Enjoy.

John

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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 7:20 pm 
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I thought you weren't required to have a chute until 150 mph.

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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 7:30 pm 
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Slowpoke wrote:
I thought you weren't required to have a chute until 150 mph.




150 needs a chute...over 135 needs a chassis cert....I went over 145 for years with the Vega with no chute...

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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:02 am 
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But a chute will pick you up 5 more mph! ;-) ;-) [-o< [-o< [-o<

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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:08 am 
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Well guys, in the back of the 2009 rule book on the quick reference chart it states

7.0-9.99-Parachute is required
then it says
10.00-10.99-4:8/150mph

It also says in the Super Pro/Pro/Sportsman class racing that any vehicle exceeding 150mph is manditory to have a chute. Maybe it is a misprint????

See what I mean about some of these rules, they are kind of goofy on how they word things and where they locate it in the book, I am just going to be safe and going 8.90's will be a whole second quicker for me, so safety is first in my racing program, PERIOD! I have no problem going on my roof right now and feel comfortable about getting out with some bruses at worst, yeah, the roof will take the hit or anything else, but I am confident I will walk away.

I have to think in terms of safety with my ride, since it weighs 3600lbs, and it was running 9.90's and 9.80's @ 137+ MPH down south and locally. I am on the brakes pretty hard along with the decelleration of the engine, and it is starting to feel a little unsafe for me on certain runs as (IF) my brakes fail in any way shape or form, I am in the sand trap, and that shuts down the track, and really gets ugly when you hit the sand, nets and or whatever else may happen.
Since my new et target is 8.90-8.80's I am almost sure I will be around 145-155mph with a 200 shot of nitrous, and I will feel better knowing I have some kind of backup braking system. I will have new front, 4 piston calipars and lighter rotor hubs(compliments of Ron Owens-Thankyou Ron =; ) so I will loose around 60lbs off the front, along with tubular A-arms.

Plus, I always dreamed of having a race car that had a chute too \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ so even if it is cosmetic looking, it WILL be useable and I will pull the chute once a weekend when racing.

So take the rulebook as you wish to understand it as what it says, I just need a little insurance for the weight of my chassis. Thanks for your concerns and input though as I always thought also that 150mph was the cutoff, which it may still be, but you can take my ride for a pass if you'd like and see how hard you will have to hit the brakes to slow this tank of mine down to make the turnoff O:)

Tanner, your a nut, but I hope you don't lie about that 5mph gain =; \:D/
Beretta, my chassis is certified and will need it again once all the cage work and backhalf is done as I believe it will go down to 7.50 with the F/C cage add on, and some other bars that will be added. I need to read the rule book more and call the tech guys at NHRA to be sure of everything.





Slowpoke wrote:
I thought you weren't required to have a chute until 150 mph.

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 8:04 am 
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A funny car cage alone does not make a 7.50 chassis by far! A 7.50 chassis looks more like you crammed all the playground equipment into a car =; .
I had talked to the chassis inspector about changing mine to a 7.50 chassis just for the experience but the way the chassis was put togther originally it is not conductive to switching over and the inspector said it would be easier to start over so I think I will put the funny car cage in and leave it.
Also to get the chassis spec.you will need to talk to SFI not NHRA,SFI is who develops the specs for the chassis,and they can tell you the best chassis spec to use for your application and when you buy the spec it only shows the driver compartment not the rear chassis.
From what I can see in your pictures it does not look like a 7.50 chassis,at least not yet,like under the car it need two frame rails with an x in the middle of the inside rails and that x needs to be longer than it is wide,there has to be diagonals between the outside and inside rails,and that 1 5/8' crossmember you put in in the rear there needs to be another in the front,and the funny car cage/main hoop will need to be built according to the drivers location to the main hoop(in front of,under, or behind).


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 Post Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:49 pm 
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inVEGArating wrote:
A funny car cage alone does not make a 7.50 chassis by far! A 7.50 chassis looks more like you crammed all the playground equipment into a car =; .
I had talked to the chassis inspector about changing mine to a 7.50 chassis just for the experience but the way the chassis was put togther originally it is not conductive to switching over and the inspector said it would be easier to start over so I think I will put the funny car cage in and leave it.
Also to get the chassis spec.you will need to talk to SFI not NHRA,SFI is who develops the specs for the chassis,and they can tell you the best chassis spec to use for your application and when you buy the spec it only shows the driver compartment not the rear chassis.
From what I can see in your pictures it does not look like a 7.50 chassis,at least not yet,like under the car it need two frame rails with an x in the middle of the inside rails and that x needs to be longer than it is wide,there has to be diagonals between the outside and inside rails,and that 1 5/8' crossmember you put in in the rear there needs to be another in the front,and the funny car cage/main hoop will need to be built according to the drivers location to the main hoop(in front of,under, or behind).



I guess this is what I was leaning towards, and thanks for your info also, I need to get those specs and check them out. I don't want to go 7.50's, not enough time to have fun for me =; and my chassis guy I use, he is good at building and welding but doesn't stay on top of a lot of this stuff for the faster chassis rules.

I'll be happy with just the F/C cage and 4 link for now. Thanks for your reply ;-)

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 Post Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:08 am 
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these chassis are not to go 7.50,they are to go faster than 8.50,they are the next step from our type of chassis so if you build that 1000 hp big block than spray it you will definatly need to get your chassis guy this 7.50 spec.....7.50 is where the chassis cert.ends so this chassis is for 8.50 down to 7.50,if you are running high 9's now just the nitrous alone will put you to the edge of the 8.50 certification O:)

Jeff


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 Post Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:48 am 
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Hey thanks Jeff, I keep telling myself that, IF I was to ever go faster than my targeted et of 8.80 for next year, that I might as well find another Elky(I'm partial to them now since I have had mine since 1999) and just do a full tube chassis, or just keep the front end on it and make the rest tube chassis. As of right now, the $$$ is just not there, nore the space to keep another Elky, maybe someday, but I want to keep the fun meter at least to the 3/4 mark for now=;

As mentioned high 8's is good enough for me, any more and the fun starts to go away a little, and the maintenance moves up and so do the cost's :-({|= The class I race in with the NMCA has an et limit of 8.80, and this is my reason for hitting this et, that means no more getting chased down, I want to be the chaser as I have found that I have better control of my car and the situation at the big end. It has worked out so far with the way the Elky WAS set up, but like many, I want a little more, and I think I have enough chassis and engine to hit the 8.80 mark without a problem. I have good parts front to back and I am working with Lenny at Ultimate Convertors to get a better convertor.

I may slow down with the tire size I am going to, but not sure as I need to make some passes and shake it down a little. I had 30 x 10.5 soft sidewall slicks, and I am going to 14 x 32's with stiff sidewalls, and, I will be able to jump up in rpm off the line from 3600 to 4800 and be a little closer to the flash of the convertor and the new tires should be able to handle the extra torque added.

I just wish I knew what this chassis of mine will want for an I/C and where it will want to be in reference to the nuetral line. I will be getting the C/G measured also before it leaves the chassis shop, and weighed totally, front to rear, corner weights, side to side all at race ready weights in it. I am hoping for 9.80's out of the trailer, but it needs to go straight first before I add the full power to it.

Anyhoo, thanks Jeff for your info, and where can these specs be obtained from if you know? I would like to see them just for giggels.

John





inVEGArating wrote:
these chassis are not to go 7.50,they are to go faster than 8.50,they are the next step from our type of chassis so if you build that 1000 hp big block than spray it you will definatly need to get your chassis guy this 7.50 spec.....7.50 is where the chassis cert.ends so this chassis is for 8.50 down to 7.50,if you are running high 9's now just the nitrous alone will put you to the edge of the 8.50 certification O:)

Jeff

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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 4:14 am 
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Hey John,

The chassis spec. comes from sfi,just google that and it will pop up the cost is $35,heck if you just want to see it pm me your address and I will copy the main page and mail it to you.

I was on another forum and a guy put a 175 hp hit on his big block and went from 9.80's to 8.60's so if you are allowed to use nitrous this looks to me to be the cheapest route to get to the et you are wanting,I think you said you were going to spray it dident you?If so make sure to tell your converter guy that


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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:46 am 
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Thanks inVEGArating, I will go to the site and I also can just copy and print it off if they show or tell all. =D>

Yes, I am going to dump the spray from a gallon jug =; not really, but I think I am just going to buy a full cheater kit, and send it off to Steve Johnson from Induction Solutions and have him blueprint the whole system for different amounts vs what the kit says, and he will change the plungers to either ceramic or teflon, I forgot what he said, but it will all be calibrated per hp level I want to try, and IF, the Elky runs a decent # out of the box with minor chassis adjustments, it may not take a lot to hit the et wanted. So, the faster I can get the chassis on motor alone and with some weight reduction, that means less spray needed, and that makes me more happy =; \:D/ =; \:D/

Man, 9.8's to 8.6's Whooo, that's a jump for sure, so maybe I may only need 100-150 additional ponies to hit may target =D> \:D/ =;

Thanks for the info buddy.

John




inVEGArating wrote:
Hey John,

The chassis spec. comes from sfi,just google that and it will pop up the cost is $35,heck if you just want to see it pm me your address and I will copy the main page and mail it to you.

I was on another forum and a guy put a 175 hp hit on his big block and went from 9.80's to 8.60's so if you are allowed to use nitrous this looks to me to be the cheapest route to get to the et you are wanting,I think you said you were going to spray it dident you?If so make sure to tell your converter guy that

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R.i.p. Doug Cunningham, gone, not forgotten.


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