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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 1:05 pm 
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I need a good, informative book with torque info., pitcures and such to help me learn about a racing powerglide transmission.
Can someone recommend a good trans book to buy?
Thanks

John

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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 1:33 pm 
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The only one worth having.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerglide-Trans- ... 1557883556


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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:18 pm 
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I bought that book also a few years back. Funny, I've been building Glides since around 1990 and finally got a book 20 years later. I will say that I did learn a few things from it though and it's well worth the money.

Once you've got one setup, ie, the reverse and high gear apply pistons machined for proper clutch pack clearance, they usually only require new clutches for a freshen up. I usually get about 5 years out of one before I freshen it up and even then the reverse clutches seem to wear more than high gear clutches do. They're cheap enough that I generally replace them anyway.

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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 3:55 pm 
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jmarkaudio wrote:

X 2

Used the book about 10 years ago to learn and do my first glide. Great book, easy to understand and with the odd question on the internet, you can't go wrong. I still don't understand why more people don't do there own glides.


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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2012 5:29 pm 
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Cool, thanks a bunch guys, book has been ordered thru Amazon \:D/ \:D/ \:D/

I took one apart back in the early 1990's and got it back together and it actually ran O:) =; so, it can't be all that hard to go thru one and freshen things up a bit.

Mine is all set up, but I am changing input shafts to a larger one to accept 1600-1800hp, and, I have heard there are the ones with rings that are a direct swap out, and the ones that are ringless, and the ringless require stator changing and well, so, what the heck is a stator!!!! :-# I didn't just say that did I??? [-( So, I am looking at one with the rings on it that will hold more power then my little TCI hardened shaft I have now, and it WILL NOT LIVE LONG with 1000+hp going thru it! I am checking to see if I get the one with rings that will hold more power, if it requires a stator change too, or maybe a bushing or something minor. I don't want to spend a ton of cash on it as it ran perfectly, I just want a larger diam. input shaft is all.

I did notice a problem with my trans though, and mabye some of you can give me a tip on what it is.
Problem- with trans in park, it will still move forward & backwards if pushed, a clicking, and it sounds like the lever shaft has some damage to it and is not holding the drum still. Broken detent or something??? sorry guys, I don't know all the names of the parts yet... I think I may have damaged this myself from parking it in the trailer, putting the shifter in park and then tightening the chassis down... I try not to move the car forward or backwards when I tighten the straps up so I DON'T DO THIS!!!!! but, I think I hurt it none the less. Any ideas???? any bad damage that you can think of inside? I think if I pull the pan off I will see some chunks, but let's cross our fingers for me just the same ;-)

Thanks again for the help with the book. =D> ;-)

John

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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 8:19 am 
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Anyone have a problem like the one mentioned above????^^^^^^^

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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 9:42 am 
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Elkyman wrote:
Anyone have a problem like the one mentioned above????^^^^^^^


NOPE! Never seen one that you could push and make the parking pawl jump but have made it do that while the car was still rolling when I put it in park. These parts aren't designed to be a "positive" stop as they are made so they will "skip a tooth or two" to prevent damage if the car is still moving when it's put in park.

So you do have a problem of some sort and hopefully you'll be able to see it with the pan off, ie, parts laying in the pan. If memory serves, the book has pics of that assembly so you'll be able to see what one is suppose to look like. Just hope that the notches around the OD of the planetary that the parking pawl locks in aren't damaged! O:)

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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 5:45 pm 
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That's what I am afraid of Ken, just what you explained, and that's what I pictured in my head from looking at my old 1.80 gearset on my toolbox that broke back in 2007, those long rectangular castle top design thingy's on the side of the carrier, I can see and hear it now, click, click, click =P~
If that is what it is when I pop the pan off, that is fairly easy to change isn't it? from what I recall I think it is.

That's some funny stuff you said too!!! 8-[ put it in park while still moving, hahaha a tommy gun effect, can ya hear it? =; =; :-# O:)

I will yank the pan this week and see what I can find. I will take pics too so I can put it back together if I get lost :-$

Thanks Ken for your reply, sounds like you will have me on the right path. ;-)

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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 8:28 pm 
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Here's a couple of pics from a case I have here in the shop. There's no shift lever shaft in there but you can see the associated parts that engage the park pawl into the planetary.

I'm thinking you got a Dedenbear case so I've never seen inside one of those and don't know if they are different or not.

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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 9:56 pm 
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Ditto on this book. I have been building my own glides for a long time and learned a few things from the book. Pay attention to the mods for the front pump. The book also goes into detail on the stator supports. As far as moving in park, once you get the pan off it will be obvious what is broken. I have many stock glide parts over the years. Looks like I live about 20 miles from you if you need some parts. I would take a look at it for you but just went thru back surgery and will be limited on what I can do for a few months.
Rick


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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:40 am 
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Good pictures Ken, those should help with the clicking park syndrome.


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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 5:12 am 
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Shifter cable could be a touch out of adjustment to cause this as well.

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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:11 am 
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Yep Ken, I have a Dedenbear case and tail housing with the roller tail. Cool, them pics look familiar for sure Ken, thanks \:D/ I will take pics as I go thru my trans for future use, and yep on that pawl thing and what the yellow pointer is pointing at is exactly what I think is damaged, just hope it's not too badly damaged...

I was on the TSR website and clicked on a few of the parts they list for replacement and I learned a few of the names for some of the parts too.

quickrodrfs, my trans has had the needed mods from my trans builder already done to th epump and where ever he does stuff, this guy is damn good and has many guys do there trans work. He is too busy right now, has his main guy out for surgery and he has work with a Ford contract to build 50 transmissions and I am 72 transmissions behind, so he said May some time! O:) I said WHAT!!! I am racing in May!!!! so, I have contacted another guy in Canada who will probably get the nod to go thru my trans, change out the input shaft, and re-certify my trans case for another 5 years. And another SFI scam!!!! ](*,) DARN CASE IS LIKE IT WAS BRAND NEW WITH A SAFETY LINER INSTALLED!!!! [-( Why do I do this????? cause it's funnnnnnnnn :- =; Where are you located quickrodrfs???

Jody, I already checked out the adjustment of my cable and I thought it might be that too, but it was darn near perfect from when I adj. it before so I know it's not that. I just installed a brand new cable too so that's done.

Dang it, it's 23 degrees out again right now at a little past 6am here in Detroit and only 32 degree;s for a high, back to the propane heat again ](*,) time to clean off the work bench too for the trans work, can't wait to get into it now.

I liked your comment J_6961, (The clicking park syndrome) =; although it isn't really funny, but who cares, just throw more money at it, that will fix it right??? :-# ;-)

Thanks again guys for all your input and comments and pics(Ken) ;-) I appreciate it. Guess there is a reason why I keep coming back to this site! =D> good people helping out \:D/

John

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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:10 am 
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Ok, (2) good bits of info. to start with. I thought my case was baught in 2007 but the SFI tags show it was 2008, so a Bonus for not having to have the case recertified this year and tear into this trans for no reason. \:D/

I pulled the pan off and no chunks!!!! \:D/ \:D/ just your normal gold dust in the bottom and very clean fluid from what drained down after the initial draining of the fluid.

So, I have a new filter and pan gasket already, just have to find it again! :- and I am not going to use the cork one, but the same black one that is on there now, I goobered up the gasket trying to get it off with a putty knife, but it came off just fine.

More later as I get the filter and valve body off. Book I ordered doesn't come until Thurs. and I sure could use it now!!!

I need a puller to pul the pump out right? if I remember correctly :-k I can make a couple of puller's real easy too.

More later.

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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:12 am 
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us7race wrote:
Shifter cable could be a touch out of adjustment to cause this as well.


I would disconnect the shifter cable, make sure the trans is in park and you still have the problem, before pulling the pan.

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