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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 6:54 pm 
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Let me hear it, who's converter's do you use and why, who's got the best converter first time out??? Readyyyyyy
GO =;

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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:00 pm 
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John I got one from Neil Chance with his special diode. I just figured I would go out side the box and after I had talked to him I think I made a good decision... =;

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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:48 pm 
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BTE. Got 4 of'em and no complaints to date. Deal with Brian Robinson there. Got a new one sitting in the floor now that's spragless but never put it in the car yet. It's suppose to be 500 RPM more stall than the one that's in it but as I said, it's never been in the car yet.

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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 9:52 pm 
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Bradco engineering. Just goggle it. I think they are redoing the web site. If you want bolt together, 11-8 inch he will set it up to your specs. He has done almost all the local bracket cars, outlaw cars and cars from over sea's. I'll tell you more later, Steve

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 7:51 am 
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I have a ptc and have always had good luck with them.

I have also used bte and they would be my second choice

I have used transmission specialties will not use them again for any reason =;


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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 11:21 am 
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ky mustang wrote:
I have a ptc and have always had good luck with them.

I have also used bte and they would be my second choice

I have used transmission specialties will not use them again for any reason =;



Transmission Specialities! Really :-k I see that they don't have a very user friendly website, kinda empty of info if you ask me, thanks for your input kystang. ;-)

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 11:32 am 
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You know, I sit and ponder about torque converter's and I hear about this company, and that's guys stuff and so on, and I am not by any means a NASA engineer, but I hear a lot of converter's just don't work first time out the door to us racers. So what is the problem, lack of info from the racers, dumb builders that just don't pay attention, what? I just don't see what the problem is that many of these builder's or company's can't seem to give the (PERFECT) stall and what works the BEST for each application! am I missing something? I don't really know a lot about converter's and trans's, but there is enough people playing with this stuff that a bunch of them should have this stuff figured out the first time out to a customer. :-k I understand it is a fluid coupler and there are a gazillion different pitches of these fins where ever they are welded at, but what is it that keeps many of these converter's from giving what the racer needs?

Just because a guy is a specialist, does that mean he knows it all about them? if so, why isn't everyone using his/her stuff? I am just curious on why this concept can't get much closer to what the end user needs( with all the info submitted) and gets the gains that gives them the best torque applied to there race car/rail! Any ideas?

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 12:35 pm 
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The most important thing is having a dyno sheet for the converter companies to use. They can from their previous experience get pretty close on the first time as long as all other information they get is correct. There are some racers that "think"their converters need correcting and have them tightened and find out they themselves were wrong (I have been in that boat my self had one tightened and slowed the car down a tenth) [-( .

There are certain cylinder heads such as the trick flow big block ford street heads that have smaller runners with lots of velocity and peak torque at a low rpm and converter companies will sometimes miss points like this and have the converter to loose . That's why its so important to have a dyno sheet because the converter companies are just guessing with out them

An engine will run quicker if it is kept in its highest average hp rpm band through the 1/8 or 1/4 what ever you are running (not torque band ). An engine will not bog above its torque peak because it is falling back on more torque if it could .


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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 12:54 pm 
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John here is Brads number. 502-821-9169 I think you will be impressed. Just talk to him and see what you think. http://www.viper-racing.se/p1/pages/page2.asp

Now to answer your question ;-)

A lot of racers have some one else build their engines and really don't know what is in it. Add the transmission and rear end to the equation and that is why some are off. If you order one from a company like I did our first 5K stall you will not get what you think it should be. Now if you talk to the builder and have it made for you you will be a lot closer.

The first one I bought was a 5k Stall for a sbc th350 (we found out later) but it was built for a nitrous car. It was way to tight for us. We took it to Brad, He cut it open and did his magic. After I told him everything about the car and what our plans were. I can call Brad any time anyplace and talk to him. He always comes by the track to help or see how racers are running. He makes a lot of bolt togethers and I have seen him make adjustments at the track for the bigger outlaw cars. I see a lot of people look for who can do it the cheapest :- and we know what that will get you. Brad also talks to and knows the guys from BTE, Coan, PTC, and so on.

Who ever you got to I hope you get what you want. Just make sure you know what you want first. ;-)

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 12:57 pm 
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And like KY Mustang said if you have a dyno sheet it will be even better.

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 3:06 pm 
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That's a problem for a lot of racer's Steve, and Kystang, not all of us have dyno sheets to show the power band and torque curve, and many just guess or like I do, I do back calculations and try to get close. I also talk to my machine shop owner and my cyl. head guy and they all seem to be in the same ball park as far as what MY engine makes for power, but again, I have no dyno sheet and I would hate to pull the engine, again, but if I could get a good price to have it dyno'd I would be all over it. I will make some calls Monday and see if I could have it done and get a price, and since the machine shop's performance name is on my car, it would be to there advantage also to have the info to spread to other customer's as well.

I have a JW 9" 5000 stall vert now, and it was sent back twice and it finally got done right the 2nd time, wether it is right for my engine! I don't know to be exact, but I do know this from a race back in 2007. When I blew my 1.90 ratio, stock case glide, two brothers let me use there parts, now, the trans was a glide but with a 1.76 ratio, and, the other borthers converter was 5500, but him and his brother were arguing about the stall, but it was a Coan 8" vert. and my carf went the quickest 7 fastest it ever did, now it was good weather and the DA was fairly low (Memphis Motorsports Park to be exact in Oct. of 07) now, did the trans gear difference, or, the converter make it quicker or faster?, and I am not even sure, but I know I am maxed out of air flow with the heads I have on the block now. Yes, they can be opened up, but remember, I have a heavy chassis and even though I have a 14 x 32 tire now and a 4 link doesn't make it faster, but it almost repeated the et and the MPH from back in 2007, so that tells me that one, weather played a big part with these results, and I haven't run any faster or quicker since with MY stuff rebuilt and with the same converter, I did change ratios to a 1.80 straight cut 4340 set from TSI and so far, so good, but I haven't been able to repeat the 1/8 mile numbers since. I ran a 6.20 in the 1/8 and I dumped it at about the 3/4 mark and it ran a 9.86 and according to that 1/8 mile number I should have been able to run a 9.70 number had I made a full pass.

So, I will talk with some people, and get a feel for things and repost my findings and see where it leads me. I would really like to dyno my engine though, so maybe that will be first on the list for the winter project. ;-) One bad thing about my next converter is, it will have to be built for nitrous :- and we can't have both built into one for engine alone, and then use the gas #-o

Thanks for your info and input guys as this will be a challenging part to order correctly and have built correctly for max power gains if any, and I am looking for gains for sure. \:D/

Anybody else have some info to share?

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 3:14 pm 
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One thing Brad always asks me is how much rpm drop there is between shifts. we have been 500 or less and he says that is about right. =; Come to think about it :-k When we redid the motor we didn't do anything to the converter. O:) But you know what :-s The car works just fine =; And we know the golden rule if it ain't broke........ \:D/ \:D/ \:D/

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 7:21 pm 
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Well John I sent Chance 4 dyno sheets from my engine and he made me a converter so let see how close it is to being right...Hope to find out tomorrow =; ....

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 7:40 pm 
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Elkyman wrote:
So what is the problem, lack of info from the racers, dumb builders that just don't pay attention, what? I just don't see what the problem is that many of these builder's or company's can't seem to give the (PERFECT) stall and what works the BEST for each application! am I missing something?


Its not always that simple. I once was at a guys place setting up his chassis and he had the exact same converter as us from the same guy etc and he had a massive BB on it not our little SB. Heaps more torque something like 300 ft Lbs more than us and it wouldnt stall up past 4500. He blamed the converter didnt ask me any questions about tune so I said nothing. But I knew what was wrong with it. Many months later he asked me about tune and I Fixed it and it stalled up like a loco. the reason why his converter didnt stall was the engine tune was wrong at idle and on the T-slot. His engine builder didnt believe in tuning idles and said all that mattered was WOT.

So its not necessarily the converter dude because the tune response of the engine makes a tremendous difference to the converter selection.


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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 8:32 am 
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That's interesting shrinker, too bad for his tuner though as he probably cost the team a lot of rounds lost :-
I hope to have a handle on my idle O:) and since it is one of them Supercalafragilisticexpialadotious 3 circuit POWER carbs \:D/ (that aught to razz all you guys who run 2 circuits =; =; =; ) that seems to run just fine on my engine. Since I finally got all my electronics to work, and work good, things seem to operate ok, but I am sure I am leaving some on the table by not having dyno time on my engine, I myself think I have maxed it's power out with the uncut heads, but the dyno can prove me wrong ;-)

Guess I need to do some reading on how things work in the converter & tranny area also to get a better grip on things. Thanks shrinker for your input. I don't mean to just plain out bash the converter builders, as I know if they don't have as much info as possible they can't build it right.

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