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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:40 pm 
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Location: Letellier MB Canada
I'm running a glide with Reid case, trans specialties 180 gears and 5500 stall converter. On the last pass it felt like it left in high gear. The 60 was way off and it ran over a second slower. I have the trans out but not apart. There was nothing on the magnet drain plug and the fluid is like new. Is there a way to tell if the converter is bad without cutting it apart? Everything turns free inside and there are no broken pieces.

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Last edited by jmech on Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:52 pm 
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Are you sure that it WAS NOT in high gear? O:) How did it act on the return road?

Reason I ask about the high gear thingie is that if you had your hand on the shifter at the hit it just might have gotten shifted. I've set mine up to make the high gear change at like .1 after the brake released and it will run like that, but with short times that are way slow and ET that is slow as well. It didn't effect MPH much though. It stayed on the converter to about mid track or so.

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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:18 pm 
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The car left on the trans brake and i shifted when the light came on. It shifted fine on the return road too. It 60'd 1.57 and ran 10.68 at 128mph. A normal pass it will 60 1.32 and run 9.60 at 139mph. I got on the converter in the pits and i felt a vibration. It stalled to 4500, should be 5500. I reved it up a few times in nuetral and there was a bad vibration. I just ran the motor with the trans out and it runs perfect with no vibration.

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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:05 pm 
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Yup, it's probably the verter then cuz the tranny has nothing to do with stall other than locking low and reverse at the same time. Last one I had BTE rebuild was around $300 If I remember correctly but they changed it to spragless at the same time.

You may find some stuff in that tranny when you tear it down.

Oh the joys of owning a race car, hey!

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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 6:42 am 
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i'll send the converter back to trans specialties for repair today. I think i'll order another one from Altimate converters and try his. This way i'll have a spare. I try and buy the best i can afford and s**t still breaks. Its frustrating. [-( I'll take the trans apart and make sure its ok :- .

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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:10 pm 
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Trans looks perfect. Len at altimate said the stater tube might have spun but it all looks good. I'm curious to know what happened to the converter. I ordered another one from Altimate and i'll have the repaired one for a spare when i get it back.

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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:35 pm 
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Yup, nothing like having more than one of stuff you need. I bought a low use 8in TS used from a guy in Fla last winter. Had him drop ship it to BTE for a stall tweak and spragless swap and wound up with what is basically a new verter for around $700. It's sitting here in the floor next to my desk now waiting for me to make the swap. That makes two 8 inchers I got for the Camaro and a 9 incher in the Studebaker.

He who dies with the most "stuff" wins! \:D/

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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 7:52 am 
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The trans specialties converter was mint. They said it looks like new. I took the valve covers off and found a broken rocker nut. [-( The push rod was ok but the rocker bearing was broken. I looked at the rest of the rockers and found 4 broken ones. They are Comp Cams stainless. I found a used set of Crane gold race rockers and put them on. Hopefully they run the rest of the season. I'll get shaft rockers for next year. Any more parts breakage and i'm done. ](*,)

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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:54 am 
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I've had a problem with that also. I've spoken to several "specialists" that say it comes from valve train harmonics and most say that NOT ENOUGH spring pressure is the cause? Rick360 and his brother don't agree with this but when you use the best parts and they still break then there has to be something amiss. The fact that you had multiple failures would indicate that harmonics may be your problem. A couple of ppl I talked to suggested a different push rod, which didn't help in my case but others said more spring pressure so that's been done also. I'm 320+lbs on the seat and over 800lbs on the nose, which is a bunch but I had to try something as these Crower SS shaft rockers I run are$65 each plus the ride.

How much cam does this engine have?

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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:36 am 
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The cam is only .725 lift, 271in 279ex at .50. I'm running Nextek springs that are brand new. Thats what the Brodix heads came with. I broke one last year so i replaced the whole set. When i did i installed them at, if i remember 1.900. They were at 2.00 from Brodix. This damage could be left over from last year. I checked the rockers when i freshioned but not real close because there was no binding in the bearings.

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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 12:21 pm 
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Manley gives an installed height setting for their springs to help prevent harmonics. The setup info is on the box and on mine they REQUIRE the springs to be setup at .080 off of coil bind at MAX cam lift. On mine that number comes out at 800+lbs on the cam nose and results in 320+lbs on the seat.

I guess if you keep on having these failures with this new set of rockers then one might "assume" that harmonics might be the cause.

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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:05 pm 
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I was thinking harmonics caused the first spring failure. For the new set i shimmed them up tighter. I don't know the open and closed pressures though but i think its about .80 before coil bind now. Thats why i think the rockers were broken from last year. I checked the springs as close as i could and they all look good. I'll just keep checking things for the next few races. The good news is my new converter stalls exactly were he said it would. =;

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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:42 pm 
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jmech wrote:
The good news is my new converter stalls exactly were he said it would. =;


I love it when a plan comes together! \:D/

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