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 Post subject: 4 Link
 Post Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:22 pm 
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First post in a new forum... =D>

OK I have replaced all the worn components in the rear end of my car.

I have measured and set the axle square using the bottom bars.

I have set -1° on the pinion angle using the left hand (from drivers seat) top bar.

How much should I preload the top right bar ?

I've got the roll bar off at the moment and am not sure if I will put it back yet.

opinions please. Thanks

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:26 pm 
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Hey Sam ... start with 2 flats on the nut and go from there as needed



Duane


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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:27 pm 
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Thanks duane, nice to see you here,

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:28 pm 
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DCarr wrote:
Hey Sam ... start with 2 flats on the nut and go from there as needed



Duane


In fact I'll go 120° on that bar as it has no nut welded on it. :-s

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:37 pm 
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Sam,
If you have an anti-roll bar, you may not need any 4-link preload. My friend with the altered always used a couple flats of preload until he put the anti-roll bar on his car. The anti-roll bar prevents the unloading of the right tire which is why you need pre-load. His first launch after putting the anti-roll bar on it went hard left. He kept adjusting (less preload) until it went straight and then checked his preload which was now gone.

Make sure to set adjust your preload with driver weight in the car and normal tire pressure, just as it is will be at the track.

Rick


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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:43 pm 
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Thanks Rick,

My car has a tendancy to go right if at all. So would that be not enough pre load ?


I'll probably go to 2 flats preload then I'll take it off when I reconnect the roll bar.

Reason for this is I think it might go into a foul condition with the roll bar and I want to get a video first.

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:47 pm 
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Just make sure you put a couple of pounds of air in the tires like you were told to do! #-o

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:50 pm 
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OK Boss ;-)

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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 8:40 pm 
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DCarr wrote:
Hey Sam ... start with 2 flats on the nut and go from there as needed



Duane


Don't you want to set the preload with Sam in the car and Race ready??
This is how I was told to do it :-k :-k :-k .......Barry


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 9:25 pm 
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Beretta wrote:
DCarr wrote:
Hey Sam ... start with 2 flats on the nut and go from there as needed



Duane


Don't you want to set the preload with Sam in the car and Race ready??
This is how I was told to do it :-k :-k :-k .......Barry


You want to find the " neutral " spot w/ the driver and all fuels on board then from there you can do the preload w/ or w/o the driver since your going 2 flats** regardless

**thats just a common starting point


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 Post Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 6:39 am 
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Beretta wrote:
DCarr wrote:
Hey Sam ... start with 2 flats on the nut and go from there as needed



Duane


Don't you want to set the preload with Sam in the car and Race ready??
This is how I was told to do it :-k :-k :-k .......Barry


Nice to see you here Barry... hows that car coming on ??

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 Post Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:42 am 
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trying not to hijack the thread but is there a time where a ladder bar rear
would be easy than a 4 link when you have a lot of power and heaps of torque
i will try and get some pics of my setup for you guy,s to look at
cant seem to find a sweet spot for my 4link and anti roll bar
this is a back half car


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 Post Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 10:28 am 
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paz400 wrote:
trying not to hijack the thread but is there a time where a ladder bar rear
would be easy than a 4 link when you have a lot of power and heaps of torque
i will try and get some pics of my setup for you guy,s to look at
cant seem to find a sweet spot for my 4link and anti roll bar
this is a back half car


paz.. In reality it is always a good idea to plot your 4 link out full size on paper. There are also computer programs to do this.

For a basic start up set up you want to set the IC at a distance approx. to 1/2 the wheelbase and 8" - 10" off the ground. I have been told to NEVER go more than 1/2 the WB. And if thats needed there are problems elsewhere.

I have a sheet here from Comp. Eng. ( that I cant find right now ) and if I recall correctly they suggest setting the lower bars at a 16* angle ( down in front ) and 23* ( down in front ) for the upper bars. There baseline worked great on my car and I will look for the sheet and post the new info if it is differant.


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 Post Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 12:32 pm 
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Ladder bars are really a great setup for your typical bracket car. They are suprisingly versatile, and can work as well as a perfectly setup 4-link in many applications.

A ladder bar setup won't have the body roll problem that 4-links have since the bars are solid. The rear-end would have to twist to have any body roll since both bars are connected to the frame and the rearend. Anti-roll bars aren't needed on a ladder bar setup because of this.

On my Camaro which has ladder bars, I switched from a 750+ HP engine and 6.20 gear that 60' 1.19 to a 550HP engine and 4.56 gear that 60' 1.33 and didn't change the ladder bars at all. I removed the wheelie bars and adjusted the shocks a little, thats all.

On an all-out type high HP car a 4-link will be better, but on most bracket cars, I think a 4-link is more trouble than they are worth.

Most 4-link setups I've seen don't have the IC as high as duane says. Normally 3-5" off the ground, lower on higher powered cars, higher on lower powered cars.

Rick


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 Post Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 6:33 pm 
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Rick .. at 3-5" are you referring to full chassied cars, backhalfed or either ?

The Backhalfed cars I'm familair with the IC is much higher than 3-5... but it could be the HP they are making also, as I doubt the stuff I play with could compete with what your used to.


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