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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:22 am 
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A friend of mine has a 2nd gen camaro with leafs and slappers. He doesn't like how high it sits up in the back. He told me he was just gonna put some 1" or 2" spacers (lowering blocks) on top of the leafs. I said I had never seen it done, but knock yourself out. I guess it's gonna change the pinion angle somewhat though, wont it? Other than that, it should be fine, ya think? I know on the street that lowering blocks make for a crappy ride, but since his is strip only. . . . Oh well, it aint mine, but is there any reason you all think I should call him up and stop him? :-k

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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 11:20 am 
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We put a 2" lowering kit on Jakes S10. we had to get rid of the traction bars. There doesn't seem to be any difference in traction or wheel hop. it does seem to ride a little rougher. It is also a little more stable.

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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 11:53 am 
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i wouldnt go over a 2" block. if he is making good power the blocks can collapse and let the rear roll in it


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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 12:16 pm 
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sorry, forgot to mention he was gonna use some 1/2 aluminum he had lying around. they would be solid "blocks".

why did the traction bars have to go? too much of an angle?

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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 12:43 pm 
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sbc23t wrote:
sorry, forgot to mention he was gonna use some 1/2 aluminum he had lying around. they would be solid "blocks".

why did the traction bars have to go? too much of an angle?


too close to the ground for the street and didn't want to take a chance on getting hung up on something. They were the lakewoods? If you had caltracs or some thing thin like that you should be OK.

Your spring angle will not change because the body/frame is going with it. All your doing is lifting the axle off the spring.

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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:15 pm 
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sbc23t wrote:
sorry, forgot to mention he was gonna use some 1/2 aluminum he had lying around. they would be solid "blocks".

why did the traction bars have to go? too much of an angle?


wait, are you saying he is planning on stacking 4 or 5 half inch blocks on top of each other? Thats the recipe for spitting some shims out.. [-X


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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 1:53 am 
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There are more ways to skin this cat. You can use up to 2 inches of block with out a problem. Make sure they are not smaller than the saddles. You can also switch rear shackles to sliders. This will lower a little more than an inch. The other thing you can do is re arch springs, or should say de arch. Anytime you lower rear or even whole car, you are lowering your Instant centers.

There are all kinds of aluminum. Some very soft. Some harder than Supermans knee cap. Use the hard stuff. Another thing is, This puts a lot of pressure on the Spring saddles and they should be boxed to reinforce them.

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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:39 am 
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Quote:
switch rear shackles to sliders


forgive my ignorance, but can you elaborate? not sure i know what you're talking about.
Also, spring saddles are already boxed. I wondered why, but now i know why. Why is there extra pressure on the saddles? Seems like it wouldn't change pressure just by adding blocks. [-( :-k

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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:21 am 
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It is the july 08 page 88 -90 issue of FSC. I would invest if I had a leaf spring car.

http://www.nmcadigital.com/fsc/2008_index.php

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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:37 pm 
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sbc23t wrote:
Quote:
switch rear shackles to sliders


forgive my ignorance, but can you elaborate? not sure i know what you're talking about.
Also, spring saddles are already boxed. I wondered why, but now i know why. Why is there extra pressure on the saddles? Seems like it wouldn't change pressure just by adding blocks. [-( :-k


Sliders eliminate the rear shackles. In stead the spring eyelet bolt slides in a slot, usually with a bearing. This removes a couple inches of shackle, half of which lowers rear of chassis.

As for the blocks, you space spring farther from axle center line, this gives you a leverage advantage or in this case, disadvantage. like using a longer pry bar. The Pinion is trying to climb the ring gear. It would go up and all the way around if the saddles broke. I know this because I had to repair my floor that looked like a out of control can opener got to it.

One other thing. On a leaf car split the spring in two mentally. The front half controls spring wrap up and the rear half provides spring rate.

I think I saw some one that said there was no room for a traction device. There are other kinds. The 60 70 Mopar super stockers never ran bars. They ran pinion snubbers. This was an adjustable stop on top of the pinion snout, to control spring wrap. All in all it worked pretty good, once you got the hang of it.

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