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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:17 pm 
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Ok guys heres my issue. I currently have a 10 bolt Gm rear with mini spool, moser axles but not c clip eliminators. I was think of going to a full spool and c clip eliminators. The monkey wrench here is the housing is bent so I will need to straighten it or get a new one. This is still the stock length in the car.

Other option. I already have a ford 9 in housing that would need to be shortened and would have to buy axles, gears etc?

so my question is should I just make what I have better or start over???


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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:40 pm 
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If you are going to keep it stock type suspension I recommend buying a complete rear end. Personally I like the moser 12 bolt made for your vehicle, bolt it in and forget about it. Ours is a 4.56 and I think 33 spline with a spool. It is about $1800. We broke the axle once the and 10 bolt twice, broke the welded spider gears and carrier then sheared the teeth off the ring and pinion . We replaced the axles with Moser axles and after we broke the rear the last time it had twisted one axle to where we had to cut the c clip off. You can also buy different rears from different companies. But personal experience is moser. remember you get what you paid for.

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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:59 pm 
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Do the 9 inch,...you can grow into it. If you do need to grow into it you will not have waisted the money spent on the 10 bolt. jmo

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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:01 pm 
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I think it depends on how fast your car is and how much torque it puts to the rear and what your future plans are for the car.

Like Mel said, the later 10-bolt is pretty tough and will take a lot. If your car is heavy or you want to go fast enough, you'll eventually want a 9". Weighing 3000lbs and no trans-brake I wouldn't worry until its about 6.50 (1/8th) and 1.40 60'. If you have a Trans-brake or manual, I'd start worrying at 7.00's.

Rick


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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:06 pm 
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right now i baby it off the line but the car is easily over 3000lb but is 60 around 1.50. I have run transbrake before but do not have any immediate plans to do that. Car runs 6.80's or so now.


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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:33 pm 
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Plans always change,... :---) never met a gear head wanting to go slower...lol [-X go with the 9" and don't look back. \:D/

Don

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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 7:49 pm 
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want-a-be wrote:
Plans always change,... :---) never met a gear head wanting to go slower...lol [-X go with the 9" and don't look back. \:D/

Don


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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 7:58 pm 
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X2-2

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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:38 pm 
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Another option like Don said is to do up a 12 bolt, weld the tubes into the center hsg. get the moser alxes and c-clip elims, spool and new gearset and never look back, also get some billet Mark Williams diff case caps and have them cut like the instructions say, and add a girdle cover with the two bolts that hold those new diff caps tight from deflection of the gearset and you can handle up to 800 ponies all day long, and for a long time, trans brake or not. and get the hardened Yoke also.
But, if you have the 9 inch, you will still need to get all the guts for it and it may cost a little more depending on what center section you want, it all adds up regardless and it just cost $$$ to go fast and be safe and dependable.

It is all up to you, and as mentioned, never met a racer who wanted to slow down much, once biten, it's usually all over =;

Oh, and my Elky weighed 3615lbs with a glide, trans brake and a 12 bolt with Moser guts and still lived with over 800 hp. 1.40 60's running 9.90's need I say more???? ;-)

Look at it this way, if you spend $5000. or more for your engine, you need to spend at least another $1200-1400. for your trans & convertor, so why skimp on your rear end? spend the cash and get ur dun =; you will be much happier in the long run and make those final rounds. and don't be cheap, get a driveshaft made also, stock stuff just won't cut it for long either, 1350 solid U-joints too. Ok, I'm done with this thread.....

Elkyman

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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 10:42 pm 
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Go with the 9 inch.................................


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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 2:44 pm 
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thanks for the opinions guys. I may have been a little confusing. I currently have run my set up "the 10 bolt" for 15+ years and "knock" on wood only broken one axle but it was stock. I do have a hardened yoke already along with a heavy duty drive shaft that was made for the car. That is why I was at the cross roads of starting over. This rear has some decent money in it, richmond gears, moser axels etc? but anyway thanks again for all of the opions I will keep you updated.


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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 3:58 pm 
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I'm curious, how did the housing get bent?

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:14 pm 
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How bad is the housing bent? You can straighten them some times.

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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 7:36 am 
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I would say the housing got bent jumping pop cans but I am not 100% sure. It is either just from years of a 3000# + car hammering on it or from the guy who welded the ladder bar brackets etc??? It is bent bad enough that the cords were showing on the inside of tire and the outside wear holes were only about 40%. I am going to try to get it straightened to get me through some of this year till I can gather enough $$ and parts to get something stronger??


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:22 am 
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Sounds like whatever you use will need to be braced.

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