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 Post Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 2:04 pm 
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Going to build a new housing to gain more adjustment as well as more tire clearance.
1st ? What determines the relationship between pinion angle and the bracket angle?
In other words, do you keep the lower bracket holes square with the housing face?

2nd? order of welding, I assume 4-link brackets 1st, back brace 2nd. and the ends last.

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 Post Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:50 pm 
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oobob,

In thinking about things, I would tack weld the ends on, toss the axles only in, then check that dimention to be exactly what you want, then when done with that, remove the axles and tack the brackets on, and finally the brace. I guess it would depend on the brace length also vs. the link brackets. I would think that the brackets would need to be darn near exactly 90* to the pinion face of the housing, and if your intending to keep the drive line as straight as possible, you may want it down facing slightly a few degree's, not sure on this but that's why they are adjustable right? anybody?????? I don't do rear ends,yet, but anyone know the best steps to do this procedure?????????? I sound like a Doctor ;-) jmo.

I think there are different ways to weld the brackets on, it may just depend on the shop or guy doing the job and HIS knowledge, one may want them 90* another may want them with a down angle built in especially if he is building a tube chassis and knows exactly what will work the best for that w/b and weight balance, but what do I know 8-[

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 12:37 am 
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1st question, I think it depends on who and how the car was built to start with. I usually square the brackets up with the face of the housing but if that's not how it was done to start with you will end up needing new 4 link bars. I would probably try to reference the housing that's in the car with an angle finder just to be safe.

2nd question, I usually put the brackets on then the ends and install the brace last.

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:47 am 
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It's been a long time since I've done one, but you start off like anything , by planning. Start with car at ride height. This will determine the angles and arc and length and alignment of bars and brackets. On the housing brackets you will generally have at least two location holes for each bar. This is the spot you have to make compromises. When you change housing holes, it changes the arc that the forward location holes need to be. Since it is impossible to have two sets of forward location holes, you choose a primary rear hole according to the arc of the front mount hols and then pick the likly center hole on the front and adjust the rear extra mounting hole to match the center of the front arc.

The housing brackets are tack welded under car at ride hight. Check bar length to make sure it centers in each forward hole threw out arc. Bottom bars first then making sure pinion angle is right do the top.. To locate the extra rear location hole take the believed best IC hole and swing an arc on rear bracket and locate hole from there.

The most common pitfalls are making brackets too narrow, use spacer washers on hiem end to prevent binding. Not having axles, wheels and tires before cutting rear housing. Not bracing the front lower brackets well enough. After tacked run suspension threw full travel and check for binding.

You will need a jig or at least a make shift one to insure your housing don't warp out of shape. You can use a srtaight tube or bar stock useing bushings to center it in carrier bearings, the bar must extend out past ends. This will give you axle centerline by measuring bar to housind circumfrance on the ends. Your housing will warp. Don't be alarmed at how much. It is how it cools that makes it straight again. If you cool it slow, it will leave some of the warp. If you cool it too fast it will remove more than what it warped. Remember no matter how far it warps, you can always get back to straight even if you have to lay an extra 2 inch weld on a tube and cold water shrink it. Then finish off the weld so nobody knows.. If heat did it, heat and cold can undo it. Hope this helps.

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 Post Posted: Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:16 pm 
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Are you moving the front brackets also??(more tire clearence would seem to require this)

I would as Chuck said reference the old housing if the car was working properly,for the brackets

I would do the brackets,brace and then ends(although I don't have a fixture to weld the ends on a rear so I let the rearend guy do that)

I weld on both sides of the bracktes when welding to keep the heat equal on both sides of the housing and I don't weld so much at one time to get the housing hotter than I can put my hand on it for a couple of seconds without pain,when it gets to that point I let it cool,in my mind the brace is the most dangerous thing to weld as you are only putting heat on one side of the housing and if you are not careful the housing can bow.

I TIG weld everything because I think it allows the parts to "normalize" better and the heat up is applied slower and more uniform than MIG or stick


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 Post Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 8:47 pm 
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Ok guys i'm finished with the new housing project and here's where i'm at rite now, 49.65" IC @6.74" up and according to my calculations about 75% anti squat. Bottom bars 3 degrees down in front.
Car info..... 100" wheel base, weights 2540 with me it has 53% rear weight, 16 X 32 tire 4.78 rear gear runs 10.0s
How should I expect it to act ? Recon I need wheelie bars? :-k #-o :-#

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 Post Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 8:51 pm 
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oobob wrote:
Ok guys i'm finished with the new housing project and here's where i'm at rite now, 49.65" IC @6.74" up and according to my calculations about 75% anti squat.
Car info..... 100" wheel base, weights 2540 with me it has 53% rear weight, 16 X 32 tire 4.78 rear gear runs 10.0s
How should I expect it to act ? Recon I need wheelie bars? :-k #-o :-#




Yep, it going to get up in the air =; =; ...Had one and been there........It was the only way to get it to be constant...
Let see some pic's.........

Also had to put light springs in the front to store some energy so it would get on the rear tire \:D/ \:D/


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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:49 am 
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Coming ^^^

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Last edited by oobob on Fri Mar 06, 2009 12:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:50 am 
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All the bars ended up in the middle holes so there should be plenty of adjustment where as before you were very limited and now we get those 16 X 32 tires in there with a minimum 1-1/8" clearance inside and out. =;

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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 4:15 pm 
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oobob wrote:
Ok guys i'm finished with the new housing project and here's where i'm at rite now, 49.65" IC @6.74" up and according to my calculations about 75% anti squat. Bottom bars 3 degrees down in front.
Car info..... 100" wheel base, weights 2540 with me it has 53% rear weight, 16 X 32 tire 4.78 rear gear runs 10.0s
How should I expect it to act ? Recon I need wheelie bars? :-k #-o :-#


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 5:47 pm 
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A few more questions guy's. Got to make a few runs this past weekend and the little vega still doesn't transfer much weight, it only lifts the front maybe 1". When we were talking angle of the bottom bar, I assumed the 2* was in relationship to the rake of the chassis, is that correct or should it be in relationship with the ground. Seems like if it were in comparison to the ground it would be pushing the front of the car down being it has 3.5* rake from front to rear in the frame rails. #-o [-(

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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 7:17 pm 
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Mark, The lower bar was down in the front on my Vega with the car sittin on the ground and mine also had a rake down......But it did have a strut front end with a BB in it......

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