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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 10:34 am 
 
Hey I've got to put new skins on my car and was wondering if I should go ahead and keep on using tubes in my M/T on my door slammer?

The tires I run currently are 28.0 X 10.5 X 15 the tread is 10.0" wide with tubes. When I measure on car it measures 11.0" wide I wonder whay that is :-k :-k :-k

If I decide not to run tubes it has been suggested to use dishwashing detergent and wipe the inside of tire to keep it from leaking, due to it getting pourus, "run after run after run"

What do you guys think?

Oh another thing I haven't changed tire size or settup since I have owned car, 60' around 1.52--1.62 would like it to hook better :-k Do you think going up to the 28.5 X 11.5 X 15 in the M/T will give me more traction or don't even go there. It says 11.0" wide so I figure it will be 1" wider than what I am running now.

What's your guys oppinion thanks allready


Mitch


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 10:54 am 
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I would go tubeless and definetly rub the complete inside of the tires with a liquid dish soap.

I would also run as tall of a tire I could get to fit. Providing it has enough tread width to keep the car hooked.

if the 28.5 x 11.5's will fit then run them. Becareful of the section width also.


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:35 pm 
 
DCarr wrote:
I would go tubeless and definetly rub the complete inside of the tires with a liquid dish soap.

I would also run as tall of a tire I could get to fit. Providing it has enough tread width to keep the car hooked.

if the 28.5 x 11.5's will fit then run them. Becareful of the section width also.


Ok cool, so why would I not run tubes, is it just the weight? Originally I ran without tubes but my dad was driving it and he wanted tubes.....I guess for a saftey thing for him.

Now you said the tallest tire or just the fattest tire ?

Won't I lose mph or et. with a taller tire..........only reason I'm asking is I really don't know =P~

and section width where is that measured?

Thanks

Mitch


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:07 pm 
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Mitch the taller tire will give you a larger "foot print" on the ground but the down side of a taller tire is the change in the final gear ratio seen on the ground.

Running without tubes will make the car ET quicker because of the weight that's lost. I've run them tubeless for years without any problems at all.

Duane is also correct on the dish washing soap inside the tire. It will keep them from leaking down so bad.

Another thing about running tubeless is flat tires! I've run tubeless tire plugs in both Goodyear and Hoosier slicks and in fact worn the tire out with a plug still in them. Some here will tell you that it can't or shouldn't be done. I've done it and will do it again if needed. My trailer tool box has a tubeless tire plug kit in it at all times. \:D/

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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:09 pm 
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from what it sounds, just run them tubeless


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:11 pm 
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No tubes will be less weight, no valve stem to be ripped if the tire were to move, can put a plug in the tire if needed to get through the day.

Generally you go for the tallest tire that will fit in the wheel well and gear it accordingly. Of course tread and section width will play into it some.

Work on the suspension to get it to hook from there.

When I backhalved my 64 and went from a 29.5 x 10.5 tire to a 14 x 32 with the same engine, trans and rear gear many people told me I would loose MPH and in fact I went from 99 mph to 102 in the 1/8. ET stayed about the same.

Section width is the widest part of the tire .. where it bows outward on the sides.


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:53 pm 
 
Ken0069 wrote:
Mitch the taller tire will give you a larger "foot print" on the ground but the down side of a taller tire is the change in the final gear ratio seen on the ground.

Running without tubes will make the car ET quicker because of the weight that's lost. I've run them tubeless for years without any problems at all.

Duane is also correct on the dish washing soap inside the tire. It will keep them from leaking down so bad.

Another thing about running tubeless is flat tires! I've run tubeless tire plugs in both Goodyear and Hoosier slicks and in fact worn the tire out with a plug still in them. Some here will tell you that it can't or shouldn't be done. I've done it and will do it again if needed. My trailer tool box has a tubeless tire plug kit in it at all times. \:D/


Wow Ken I would have thought just doing a burn-out would just rip the plug right out and leave you on the line....................do you use a speacial plug for racing slicks??

That's good to know I'll just go tubless from now on.

Now on the dishwater detergent, should I use it straight or dilute it, I assume straight and do not leave any axcess in the tire??

Thanks guy's.

I've got a new set I bought in the winter and will run these without tubes then see how big I can go after that without tubbing my machine =D>

Mitch


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 6:01 pm 
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Another thing that enters into contact patch is the rim width and tire presure. Watch your foot print on you burn outs to see if it's darker on the out sides/ inside. Dark black on out side edges say need more presure. Center black says need less.You can get dead on with a tire pyrometer or an infared rifle scope. A good feel with a soft cotton glove is third best. Both tires don't nessasarly want the same presure either. And if they don't there is room for chassis tuning if you have ability to ajust it.

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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 6:32 pm 
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I have run all my slicks tubeless with great results. The dishwashing liquid is the shyt. Mounted two sets 3 weeks ago and have not lost any air. I have also plugged a slick like Ken said and it works great.


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 6:34 pm 
 
Bubstr wrote:
Another thing that enters into contact patch is the rim width and tire presure. Watch your foot print on you burn outs to see if it's darker on the out sides/ inside. Dark black on out side edges say need more presure. Center black says need less.You can get dead on with a tire pyrometer or an infared rifle scope. A good feel with a soft cotton glove is third best. Both tires don't nessasarly want the same presure either. And if they don't there is room for chassis tuning if you have ability to ajust it.


Yea I'm pretty sure there 10" wide, now I run 12lbs. in left and 12.5 in right if I light it up on the street they show under inflated however if i launch at the track above 13lbs my car slips and even fishtails and I lose alot in the 60' time............Now I haven't really gone down to much from 12lbs. but I know I start to fall off above 13lbs. of air, what do you think??

Mitch


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 6:36 pm 
 
StrokerCamaro wrote:
I have run all my slicks tubeless with great results. The dishwashing liquid is the shyt. Mounted two sets 3 weeks ago and have not lost any air. I have also plugged a slick like Ken said and it works great.


Ok good I'm in for that for sure. =D> =D> =D>

Mitch


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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 8:26 pm 
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i agree with everyone on tubeless. i ran tubes years ago and never could get them to ballance, it had a vibration at the top end of the track. also the liquid dish soap works great, but don't get it on the outside of the wheel. it makes your wheels cloudy looking if you leave the soap on too long


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