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 Post subject: leaf springs
 Post Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 2:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2007 11:15 am
Posts: 175
Location: Seattle
Has anyone heard of removing the clips that wrap around the leaf springs :-k
I have an extra 1/2 leaf on the fronts with extra spring clamps and was also told that removing the drivers side rear clip lets the rear part of the spring flex and put some preload in the car .
Thanks
Royz

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 9:54 pm
Posts: 1619
Location: Western Illinois
When you put spring clamps on they stiffen the spring, if you take them off it will soften that same spring. The general rule of thumb is to clamp front and rear of passengers side and just the front of drivers side. this gives you some preload. Depending what device you have for stopping excessive spring wrap up you can adjust that for more preload under running conditions. If you have a bar under spring type, you set the right to hit before the left, this adds preload. a pinion snubber type can be off set to the right to gain preload.

One thing is often over looked with a leaf spring. It has an instant center just as any suspension has. You can change it with a couple ways. Lowering blocks, more location holes on front of spring and re arching or de arching springs.

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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2007 11:15 am
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Location: Seattle
Thanks Bubstr
I will put some additional clamps on the rear passenger side my query is still with cutting the drivers side rear leaf clip  :-k I also saw an article about making the drivers side shackle about an 1" longer whats your opinion on this :-k the the springs were slightly overarched when they were made so that I could have a bit more rake to the car
appreciate your help  =D>  =D>  
Thanks
Royz

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You dont have to be pretty to go Really FAST
http://users.glowfoto.com/dnewnova
Think about your "Dash"
http://www.simpletruths.com/dash/index.html


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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 12:21 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 9:54 pm
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Location: Western Illinois
The problem you can run into with too much arch is you get rear steer out of it. The arch turns into an S, this lengthens the spring on the front half, pushing the housing rear ward. This is a trick I used on dirt tracks. If you load both springs the same there is no problem. They will move together.

The longer shackle or even a slider is usually for more unimpeded travel.  Actually the angle of the shackle can stiffen or soften the spring. it can help or reduce rear steer. You do not want rear steer in a drag car. you actually don't want too much compression or separation in the rear at all for best results. You try to dial this in with anti squat

I used to run the MOPAR SS springs. on them springs everyone thought the spring jacked up the rear (separation), but actually if you lower the front eye the anti squat decreased and you no longer got the separation. The trouble is if you lower the mounting point you have to  de arch the spring to keep the same ride hight, or you can add lowering blocks between axle and spring which is ok up to about 3 inches.

One absolutely necessary thing you have to do on any high powered leaf spring car is box the spring saddles on the housing. If you don't you will rip them suckers right off.

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 10:00 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2007 11:15 am
Posts: 175
Location: Seattle
I dont have any extra devices for controlling spring wrap the guy who made my 1/2 leaf said that and the extra clamps  should be ok ,I also relocated my dble adjustable shocks to a more vertical position so I think we will go with that setup till i get some results in the new season.
Thanks again for the help .
Royz

_________________
You dont have to be pretty to go Really FAST
http://users.glowfoto.com/dnewnova
Think about your "Dash"
http://www.simpletruths.com/dash/index.html


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