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 Post subject: wire up race car
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:29 am 
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bought jegs cage switch the oter day, how do all you guys wire up your race car? like 1 gage wire to starter, 4gauge to kill switch then branch off there with 10 gauge to switches etc or how do you do it. What all do I need for relays? can I wire all 5 switches up off of one wire then fuse all switches on other side or what is best? thanks for any help!!!!!!!!

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 Post subject: Re: wire up race car
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:52 am 
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spib wrote:
bought jegs cage switch the oter day, how do all you guys wire up your race car? like 1 gage wire to starter, 4gauge to kill switch then branch off there with 10 gauge to switches etc or how do you do it. What all do I need for relays? can I wire all 5 switches up off of one wire then fuse all switches on other side or what is best? thanks for any help!!!!!!!!


1 ga. from batt to kill switch then onto starter.

I ran 2 10 ga. wires from starter solinoid to my electrical panel since I still had a key switch for the ignition / starter that also controlled power to the fuel pump.

Power to water pump drive and elec. fan was seperate so I could shut the engine down and leave those running. I also ran a " Tik Tok switch for the fan and water pump.

Relays for Fuel Pump and Fan for me and I forget what the 3rd one was for. I sold the car before I ever got to install this panel.

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 Post Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 11:29 am 
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I have rear on/off switch in right rear taillight, with battery there also, was thinking 1 gauge all the way to starter, and seperate wire to kill swith on tranny hump, then off to everything else, I dont know if this is right or wrong?

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 Post Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 11:43 am 
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Man, this could turn into a can of worms real quick. O:) Must be a gazillion different ways to do this. ](*,)

To start with, write down everything you plan to use that requires electricity and note about how many amps they draw. Count up how many circuits you will need and add about 4 to that. What I'm saying here is plan for more circuits that you figure you'll need! Better to have those available than to need another one and not have one! You can run more than one item off of one circuit but I prefer to have each item on it's own circuit, except for lights. Be careful that you don't have two high amp thingies on one circuit if you use more than one per circuit. I fuse all mine with at least a 20 amp fuse. 14ga wire is good for 17 amps in a harness and 32 amps in open air so 20 should handle most anything you have. 10 gauge from the solenoid to the fuse box is good for 55 or more amps continuous service since it's a short run. Oh, and if you plan to run an alternator you'll need to run an 8GA wire back to the positive post on the battery (or the battery side of the disconnect) so the disconnect will still work to shut off the engine.

Relays? Personally I don't like to use those! Reason? Just something else in the circuit to go bad and they make it harder to trouble shoot if you have a problem. If you run wire that is heavy enough to handle the amp load of water pumps, fans and fuel pumps, etc it will eliminate the need for the relay to begin with. Just make sure you fuse ALL circuits! That s**t could catch fire if you don't! I've seen that happen and it's not pretty!

I used welding cable all the way from the battery to the starter on both cars I built. All the others I've owned were the same there. Ground cable doesn't need to be that big as it's a short run to the frame rail from that negative post. 8 or 10 GA wire from the battery cable terminal on the starter solenoid to the fuse panel and then 12 or 14 to the accessories. Wires in a tight bundle can't handle as much current as wires that are loose, less heat buildup. I expect the most amp draw would be the starter button, depending on which starter you use. The "mini" starters don't pull that much current but a stock Chevy starter does. In either case I'd run 12 ga to that as it's only a momentary use type thingie anyway. 14 GA should handle most everything else.

Oh, and one more thing! make it NEAT! Nothing looks worse than a a rats nest wiring job! O:) I've built two cars and wired both differently. I've owned three others that someone else did and on one of those it looked like a rat's nest and I damn near rewired that whole car before I ran it. The Camaro I've got now is OK but I have changed a couple of things on it as well.

Just take your time and ask questions if in you don't know what to do.

We're here for ya buddy! =;

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 Post Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 12:38 pm 
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ken , I knew you would have some good ideas, I am going to run 1 gauge to bulkhead conector at firewall, then to starter, I am going to use remote seliond and right now have no fuse block, tore it all out, want to run lights,brake lights and turn signals, then ignition,starter switch,water pump,fuel pump and electric fan, I want it simple and to work!!!!!!

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 Post Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 1:49 pm 
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So I take it you're going to make this a "street" "race" car then? That makes it a bunch more complicated and requires more circuits along with a flasher to make the turn signals work. Hummm, it's almost like you would have been better off with a "modified" stock wiring setup?

Anywho, on my Studebaker I used a race steering column and an aftermarket turn signal switch that clamps to that column. I didn't use a keyed ignigion switch but I did make the door locks work and put an alarm system on it, just in case. To be honest, it was a wiring nightmare. Just so many circuits to do. God only knows how much wire I actually put in that thing! Course it's got AM/FM/Tape, power antenna, plus two power amps and it's even setup for heat and A/C. I guess if you just want something that's barely "legal" it would simplify things a bit.

In Virginia the headlights have to be wired with the tail lights, ie, you aren't suppose to be able to have the headlights on with the tail lights off. We are also required to have a high beam indicatior for the headlights. Then there's windshield wipers, heater/defroster, yadda, yadda, yadda! And the real bigie is state inspections, which require emissions control s**t to be in place and working! Your state may vary!

You do realize that this will take some time, don't you! O:) =;

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 Post Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 6:01 pm 
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My car doesnt have to have inspection, law states one winshield wiper, doesnt say it has to work. this car has plates and is lisensed already. just want lights, front and back,turnsignals, and brake lights, might add horn later. rest will be stuff to run motor. this will see very little street use, and If I get a ticket or two my wife will say , yank them lights out of there!!!!!!!!!!!

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 Post Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 8:55 pm 
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Spib, I bought a prewired rocker switch panel for mine. My last car I made the panel for and it was a pain. This one uses the rocker type switches and has circuit breakers instead of fuses built in to the panel. It's a real slick piece with quality switches and wire. I started pricing the components to make one of these and there was little difference between buying and building one. Its a small outfit that makes these and I can't remember the name. I will dig the ticket up tomorrow and post the info if you're interested. It saved a bunch of time and looks real nice. Oh yeah, this guy will custom build to order.

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 Post Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 10:57 pm 
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thanks all who have replyed for help, what do you think of this, its on line at jegs.com under part number764-50101 or in jegs cat I think this might work for what I want to do, and run wires up to switches on cage.

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 Post Posted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:32 am 
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I used a pretty painful Painless 12 circuit wiring harness when I did mine. If you're going to go through the hassle of signals, horn, etc, it might be worth the cost.

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 Post Posted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 6:22 am 
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the guy I bought my stuff from is trick cable and switch. his phone number is 763-425-0800. Nice stuff and I'm pretty sure he builds to order. The panel came with plenty of wire and a disgram that makes install easy. If you're going with a roll bar mount it has a clamp mount deal that will let you install without drilling or welding.

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 Post Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 8:52 am 
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Hello
I bought a Painless system as well. I also have a Holley Annnihilator ignition system......then a friend told me that I should run relays and sent me a link to the MADD site......I got confused
I put everything back on the shelf, until I am ready to wire it.....I am NOT looking forward to it, but it is coming up to this point fast
I am not good at this part of the project
I hope more guys write in with tips or pointers. I usually ask the dumb questions after I have already made my mistakes
take care
Tom


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 Post Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 11:32 am 
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I have been asking dumn questions all my life, my dad told me the only dumn question,is the one you dont ask. I am a ways off, from wiring my car, but at work I think about how everyone does there's so when ,the time comes, hopefully I will be ready

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 Post Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 12:11 pm 
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spib wrote:
I have been asking dumn questions all my life, my dad told me the only dumn question,is the one you dont ask. I am a ways off, from wiring my car, but at work I think about how everyone does there's so when ,the time comes, hopefully I will be ready


I don't remember where I heard it but I have been using it in my shop ever since "don't be afraid to ask stupid questions, they're a lot easier to handle than stupid mistakes"

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 10:19 pm 
 
I had a car professionally wired and had nothing but problems with it. Actually this happened to me twice. I tore it all out (everything was on relays) and did it myself and no more problems. I agree with Ken, I hate relays, wire is cheap and it dosn't break. I only use relays when just using more wire is not an option. Switches are the next problem, be sure not to run more amps than they are designed for. Everytime I get close to a switches full capicity I end up with a problem that takes me forever to figure out. Good luck. Ty


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