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 Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:59 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:24 pm
Posts: 5071
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
Yeah Ken we are on the same sheet for a change. ;-) It was just a diagram of what I have. I put the switch in the field in case jake needed a couple of hundredths in the 7.50 index class.

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Steve

6.7772 @ 101.51 1/8th 10.747 @ 122.24 1/4

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 Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:11 pm
Posts: 2749
Location: Shepherdsville, KY
I used the relay that Barry used with a 1-wire alternator. I used a disconnect switch with the extra set of terminals like Steve used to disconnect the relay. This allowed me to use about 6" of heavy gauge charge cable (with the relay)from the alternator to the starter and run a smaller gauge wire to control the relay. I bought the relay from the place Barry has linked. Very reasonable price and the people are easy to deal with. I put the alternator on mine last winter and I think the only time I fired up the generator all year was to help Jody with a dead battery =; .

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 Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:45 pm 
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mikef wrote:
Yea I assumed he meant the main charge wire. Man, I opened a can of worms here!!!


Not really as Steve and I are both correct. You just needed to know that Steve's diagram might be specifically for a Delco alternator. ;-)

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 Post Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 9:41 pm
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The easiest and most effective way to wire any alternator is by using Cole Hersee's PN 75912 master disconnect switch. It's a 4 post switch that has 4, 3/8" post and is rated for 750amp continuous (I believe) and 2000 amp momentary. The posts are labeled A,A and B,B and are independent of each other, but are open and closed by the switch. Battery in on A out to car on other A, Alternator in on B and to the battery on other B. This switch is $65 from J&N auto electric...90% of the master disconnects sold by Performance Mail Order Houses are not properly rated for what we need....IMO.

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Jeff Brandenburg
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