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 Post subject: alternator
 Post Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 12:19 pm 
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I think I'm going to put an alternator on the Probe before racing starts up. I have a couple of questions.  Do you have to run a separate wire to the cut-off switch and does it require a special switch with an extra terminal for the alternator?  Has anyone used the powermaster alternator?

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 12:34 pm 
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Chuck on ours I run a jump wire from the big terminal to the little terminal on the battery side of the kill switch the from the little terminal on the other side to the field plug of the Alt. Then of course the larger wire from the starter to the big lug on the alt. I also put a switch on the field wire on the switch panel so we could cut off the Alt from inside if Jake needed a couple of hundred while index racing.

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 1:18 pm 
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Chuck the large wire will have to be on the battery side of the disconnect switch otherwise the engine will still run if the master disconnect is thrown.  

As far as dropping the fields to stop charging goes, this does NOT work on all alternators!  The Mitsubishi on my Camaro will still charge even if you disconnect the wire that excites the fields!!  Once it starts it won't stop until the engine is shut off.  I know this does work on a Delco but it doesn't on the one I'm running now.

I run a 70 amp alternator that is one of those "dime a dozen" type deals.  It was originally on a 90 something Mazda MPV and also on some Phord Probes as well.  Small size, good amps and pretty easy to make a mount for.  There is a pic on here somewhere that shows how I made mine out of a piece of aluminum flat bar and some round spacers.  Do a search here for "alternator mount" with me as the author and see what shows up.

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 2:26 pm 
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only problem with the way you have it wired Ken is there is constant voltage going to the alt all the time O:) ...I don't like it..

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 3:48 pm 
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Looks like taylor offers this.  It has 2 extra terminals for the alternator disconnect.
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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 4:37 pm 
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Beretta wrote:
only problem with the way you have it wired Ken is there is constant voltage going to the alt all the time O:) ...I don't like it..


So what is the "down side" of that?  Check every car sitting in your driveway and you'll find they are like that also?

I've been running mine like this since the first car I built back in the 1980s and have yet to see that as a problem.  

RE: Chuck's post....... I guess the SFI guys got NHRA to buy into that also then, hey.  Since that's "one of" type thingie I can see that one going for around $100!!  That goes back to Mel's sig!  More s**t to buy that you don't "need" which drives up the cost of racing.  Just like the seat belts that "wear out" in two years regardless of how much or how little you use'em!!  The original intent on the master disconnect was to be able to shut down an engine on the starting line if there was a problem that the driver wasn't aware of.  Next thing you know, OSHA is going to impose a speed limit cuz you're going too fast!! :-

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 5:34 pm 
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I wasn't sure if the safety part of the switch wasn't to kill all electrical power to the car in the event of a crash.  If it's just for shutting the engine off then wiring the alternator straight to the battery should be ok. I think it's a good idea to have all the power off when you're working on the car and switching off is a lot simpler than disconnecting dual batteries.  The 4 post switch is under 40 bucks so I'll probably use one  if I put an alternator on mine.

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:39 pm 
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We have one like that one Chuck. I think we got it through Jegs for about $20 5 years ago. You can also find them at tractor trailer shops.

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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:55 pm 
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Hey guys,
   I have mine wired the same as Ken where the alternator is hot all the time,it has a #6 that goes from the alternator to the battery side of the switch


  P.S.    the alternator is a good place to hook up a timing light in a car with a relocated battery  =;


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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:59 pm 
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So what is the "down side" of that?  Check every car sitting in your driveway and you'll find they are like that also?



The down side of that is that it's sittin in my trailer and don't like the idea that there's power to the alt all the time... Also there is a amp draw from the alt also It's not much mabe a tenth of an amp or less...

Honestly if one of the cars in my driveway got an electrical fire I don't really care as long as nobody got hurt. Plus I have insurance to cover that...I don't have any on the Beretta....Do you have fire insurance  on yours????

It's just a safety issue for me Ken and  and I was just stating my opinion on this issue. You can do what ever you want with your car and they have been checking this issue at some track's here in Jersey.. The way you have it wired it won't pass tech inspection but then again you don't have to worry about that.....

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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:43 am 
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Here is how I wired mine and if I had known that Taylor had a switch like Chuck had posted I would have used that kind of switch..Anyway the sol I used is rated at 100amps continuously...I mounted it on the side of the battery box  =;

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 9:14 am 
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this is the switch i use. it comes with or without the field disconnect. they make one with a higher rating but this one is more then sufficant for our small block, we do not use the field dissconect because we do not run an alt. but we are 16 volt.

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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 12:45 pm 
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I wired my alt in with the fuel pump relay.  I used a heavy relay also, so if the fuel pump is off so is the alt.  This helps when you are charging your battery during cool down to prevent a spike to your alt when disconnecting or connecting the cables if you forget to turn the charger off first.  This makes 10 years this way and so far no problems yet.  I cooked one alt before I thought of this though.


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 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 2:26 pm 
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What diameter crankshaft pulley do you guys run? I picked up an alternator today that has a 2 1/2" pulley on it and I'm not sure what size C/S pulley I want to go with.  It looks like I have 4", 5.25", 5.4" and 6.5" to pick from. I know if I use one that's too small it won't charge much (if any) in the pits and too big is going to create more drag and spin the alternator too hard. I shift around 8k.

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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 2:36 pm 
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I would use the 4 inch pulley, at 8k thats alot of spinning. i hope those are deep groove pulleys cause she's a gonna be stretchi'n.

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