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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 7:12 am
Posts: 243
Location: plainwell mi.
Hi, everyone I am finishing up my camaro and ready to drop the distributor in , My question is should i change the springs in it or leave it lock it out or not. I am not real familiar with this stuff so help me out please   thx to all


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 Post Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:12 pm 
 
If it is a all out race deal i would keep it locked out .


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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:43 am 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 7:12 am
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Location: plainwell mi.
the car will be street strip


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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:00 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:24 pm
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Location: Elizabethtown, KY
I have been told to lock out the one on the wagon. With close to 14.1 comp and a mini starter would it kick back? we start with a key.

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 Post Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 3:52 pm 
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Location: NJ
i would not lock it out if you are running on the street, especialy if you are not running race fuel..

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 Post Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 10:32 am 
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Joined: Mon May 01, 2006 12:58 pm
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Location: Ft. Worth, Tx
ron owens wrote:
If it is a all out race deal i would keep it locked out .
X2

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 Post Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 10:42 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 9:41 pm
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My past experience with street/strip deals is lock it out!!! If you have a strong battery, good starter, and all precautions have been taken when wiring the car...kick-back shouldn't be an issue.

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Dykes & Strippers Custom Wiring


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 Post Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:16 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:24 pm
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Location: Elizabethtown, KY
What is the advantage of locking it out and why? What performance is gained?

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 Post Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 12:20 pm 
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Location: Coming At Ya!
The first pump gas 434 I built was really hard on bearings. I must have gone thru two or three sets of bearings inside of 1,000 miles. That engine had a crank trigger, which is the same thing as locking out the timing in the distributor. Well, I was talking to Kowalsky one day about this and he said he would check with a GM engineer he knew on it and get back to me. About a week later he told me that the crank trigger being at full timing and part throttle was the problem, according to that GM engineer he spoke to. So, I went back to running the distributor with mechanical advance and the problem went away.

Now later on I did connect that crank trigger back up but what I did was install a relay in the circuit that would switch between the distributor and cranktrigger depending on where the throttle was. At WFO it was on the crank trigger and anything below that it was on the distributor.

Anywho, that cured the bearing problems on that particular engine. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY!

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