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 Post Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 5:22 pm 
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Location: Clawson, Mi.
I just got done reading about Collin's 2 circuit convert and looks like it worked out pretty well for him and another few people too, and now I have a question.

Would it be worth the money spent to either buy a new 2 circuit carb, or, send mine out to one of you guys to do the convert for me? I know the price difference, but should I convert a 3 circuit that I could otherwise sell to offset the price of a new 2 circuit carb? I am sure I could do the convert after I buy all the tools and plugs needed, but not sure I want to change this carb as of yet :-k

Also, would it be worth it to buy a nice used HP 2 circuit carb and work with that? There are lots of options out there and I just want to go the most affoardable route that will net the most gains per dollar spent. I will also look for QFT and other 2 circuit carbs used as well for a deal if I can find a good one...

Thoughts???

Thanks
John

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R.i.p. Doug Cunningham, gone, not forgotten.


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 Post Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:12 pm 
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Nothing is done during a "normal" 2 circuit conversion that can't be undone if you want to put it back like it was! THAT is why we say to MAP THE CARB BEFORE YOU START!

Don't know about others, but these conversions usually cost $200 or less depending on how much stuff you have to buy and how expensive the metering blocks are. QF 3 E hole blocks are relatively cheap @ around $110 or so and several of us have used those with good results to date. I do believe that Barry has used them on two or three conversions. The BLP blocks are more expensive and offer more options as far as E holes are concerned IF you really want to get into playing with that part of the circuit.

Last of all, learning to do this YOURSELF is the best option because whatever you do, you'll have to fine tune it yourself to get the most out of it!

One thing you'll have to do though is learn patience as things don't always go right! Things that don't go right sometimes are a blessing in disguise as by the time you finish learning how to fix it, you've increased your knowledge in ways that normally wouldn't have happened!

It's all good in the end though! ;-)


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 Post Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:15 pm 
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Ken0069 wrote:
Nothing is done during a "normal" 2 circuit conversion that can't be undone if you want to put it back like it was! THAT is why we say to MAP THE CARB BEFORE YOU START!

Don't know about others, but these conversions usually cost $200 or less depending on how much stuff you have to buy and how expensive the metering blocks are. QF 3 E hole blocks are relatively cheap @ around $110 or so and several of us have used those with good results to date. I do believe that Barry has used them on two or three conversions. The BLP blocks are more expensive and offer more options as far as E holes are concerned IF you really want to get into playing with that part of the circuit.

Last of all, learning to do this YOURSELF is the best option because whatever you do, you'll have to fine tune it yourself to get the most out of it!

One thing you'll have to do though is learn patience as things don't always go right! Things that don't go right sometimes are a blessing in disguise as by the time you finish learning how to fix it, you've increased your knowledge in ways that normally wouldn't have happened!

It's all good in the end though! ;-)



\:D/ \:D/ \:D/


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 Post Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:55 pm 
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Location: Auburndale, Florida
I don't know if you've read this thread but, if you have refer to it again.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9717

As said above it's realtively easy to do. I've followed what you've done to your car so I would imagine this would be child's play for you.


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 Post Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:58 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Hey John,
My carb started as a 80556 Holley. If you get some billet metering blocks it makes the conversion real easy.
I could not be happier with mine, and I'm still improving it every chance I get, we don't get as many chances to race here (Australia)
I brought some QF metering blocks, some blank bleeds & emulsion jets, a few drill and taps. Probably about $300 bucks.
But the best thing is to see how good it runs and that I did it myself. I had a carb expert here, tell me that my carb, (prior to the conversion) was junk and that he could build me a good one for $2200 dollars #-o #-o A big difference from $300 dollars.
So my suggestion is do it yourself.
I'm a bit far away for actual help, but anything (info) I can help with, don't hesitate to ask.
You will get lots of help from everybody here, no problem. Go for it.
Cheers Colin.


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 Post Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 6:32 am 
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Hmmmmmmm :-k ok, you guys talked me into it =; Yes, it would, or will be nice to hit the spin button and have the engine fire right up and idle nice.

Another thing I would like to do to the main body is, change the boosters and beside drill bits, what tool do I need to remove & install them and keep them in place since those little hollow shouldered plugs hold them in? Would a roll pin type of tool with a tapered shoulder do the trick to install them tight? The tool I am talking about is what I use to push out roll pins as an example...

I also would like to smooth out the venture's and the entry into them, so what do you guys use to clean and polish this area up with? I can think of a tapered funnel type, fine emery cloth type piece to do this in the shape of a cone. What do the carb people do to clean this are up with? If I am going to do this convert, I might as well learn as much as possible and do everything I can vs. buying a new carb, plus my engine might even like it! :-$

I am open to suggestions on who's booster's to use and a part # is a plus for those who have changed them out and which one's they like to use.

One more question too, I notice that you guys are tapping and plugging the power valve ports and then install blanks, why is this done if there is a blank pv used? does the air still travel around the blank??? I am thinking so hence the plugs...

Well, I better get my list started on tools, gaskets, plugs, jets & blocks needed and I am going to change the bowls also with better sight holes to see the fuel level better. Looking forward to mappin out my carb now too :-$

Thanks to Ken, Nomad, Collin, Mark. ;-)

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Thanks To;
DART
Motor City Muscle
Induction-Solutions
Fuelab Fuel System
D & S Engines
My Wife & Family




R.i.p. Doug Cunningham, gone, not forgotten.


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 Post Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:59 am
Posts: 438
Location: Auburndale, Florida
You can change the booster inserts if you want. It's not required for the 3 to 2 circuit conversion. If this is staying a gas carb the inserts can be changed in place. There are photos of various devices to do that here on MSV. If you absolutely have to change the inserts use the BLP 5104 12 hole inserts. They are available in black or purple only.

The reason we plug the power valve restrictions when using a power valve plug is to isolate the mainwells from each other so they work independently.


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