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 Post subject: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:06 am 
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Been doing alot of reading etc about dom's and tuning mine the best i can with the help from reading, and from Mark W, Question I have is if i am cruising at say 28-3000 which is where i cruise at for my car. Are the main circuits activated by then and no longer running on the TSJ?
Here's a low down on my carb so far...

Main Jets 86/94
Powervalve 4.5"Hg [rear plugged]
Idle Airbleeds .067"
Hi-Speed Airbleeds .026" PRI . 025" SEC
IFR .037"
PVCR .070"
Transition Jets .067 [Screw-in]
Needle & Seat .120"
Squirters .035"
Accel Pumps 50cc
Mix Screws 1-3/4 Turn out
BLP Billet 12 Hole Boosters
Notched rear float
Jet Extensions
BLP Billet Blocks Modified /Angle channels opened to .154
#1 and # 3 emulsion holes .028 #2,4,5 Plugged
IFR relocated

BLP linkage kit

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:18 am 
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From what I've seen on my Dominator the mains start in somewhere between 2200 and 2500 RPM on the transbrake. I checked this by running the engine up against the transbrake while my Wife was looking in the carb so there is a margin of error involved on that number. O:) Keep in mind though that every engine will be somewhat different.

If you have a transbrake then you can get a friend to look while you run up on the brake and that will tell you where they start.

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:38 am 
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Thanks Ken , No brake here, can u tell just by bringing up the rpms in park? So If they are coming in that early I could more than likely lean the TSJ some more? I always thought the mains didn't come in til almost 3000 and was afraid to go any leaner on mine. Also if they are on by the time i am cruising how does that work for the secondaries being the plates are still closed at their idle position? Wouldn't fuel just puddle then on top of the plates or no?

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:01 am 
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Keep going leaner until it acts up, you won't hurt it, is will just have a flat spot between the two. I've run as low as .052 on the t-slots, you may need to go up on the IAB to balance it out. The t-slot size and location on Dominators varies enough that each one needs to be tuned. Once you get it lean enough to make it act stupid then go back just enough to clear it up. Always at operating temp.


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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:39 am 
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Mark's right as you're not likely to hurt that engine running it lean at part throttle.

As for running the engine up in park, with NO LOAD it will still likely be on the T slots at 3k.

Since you haven't mentioned a wideband I'm going to "assume" that you don't have one and I'm going to suggest that you invest some $$ in one of those as it is a valuable tuning aid, especially on this part throttle stuff.

If you already have access to a laptop computer (initial setup) then you could get an Innovate LC-1 and a dash mount gauge so you could see what the changes you make do. Contact Greg Kelly at Motorsports Innovations in New Jersey and he'll give you a good deal. That would be money well spent and I guarantee that you won't regret it. ;-)

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:44 am 
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Thanks Mark, so next question I am out of bleed blanks,,lol.. My carb is drilled to use the old style barry grant bleeds I think? still 10/32 but different than holley bleeds I see out there. Are those available anymore?
Ken I do have a WB, LM1 just haven't installed it in this car yet . I did have it setup in my grandville and it was pretty good if I remember right, was a little lean if i remember. I think that is why i ended up being so big on the TSJ's, that was a couple of yrs ago and can't remember now. Then i noticed i had a vac leak from the trans modulator hose, when i went to a manual valve body forgot to take that off the intake,lol. Wouldn't be that hard just need to drill a hole in the collector and weld a bung on, Also does it matter if I run a pan evac on my ex on the one side. Would it effect the AFR readings? Or should i put the bung on the other side without that?

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Last edited by 74 firebird461 on Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:04 am 
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We use 10x32x1/4 long brass set screws that we get from McMaster Carr and drill them to whatever we want.

Good deal on the LM-1!! From what I understand, they are better and or easier to setup and use than the newer LM-2. But even the LM-1 doesn't work very well sitting on a shelf in the garage! =;

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:07 am 
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Ken0069 wrote:
We use 10x32x1/4 long brass set screws that we get from McMaster Carr and drill them to whatever we want.

Good deal on the LM-1!! From what I understand, they are better and or easier to setup and use than the newer LM-2. But even the LM-1 doesn't work very well sitting on a shelf in the garage! =;



Yea true ,lol... That is what i did on my old 850 holley for the bleeds, but this dom i got different style bleeds. This carb was originally setup by a friend that does carb's, and he used that style of bleed then i ended up changing the whole calibration pretty much. I think these are the kind I have.

http://www.southwestspeed.com/?sec=view ... r%20Bleeds

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:48 am 
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You can use 10/32 set screws and figure out what it needs then drill the BG blank jets to what you need... They are proud of them BG bleeds aren't they :- ..

I had a BG carb and may have some of them so let me take a look and if I still have them if so there yours... =;


Hey I found them =; Same part #200082 and there is 8 of them left..PM me your address and I will get them in the mail ;-)

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:08 pm 
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Hey Thanks! PM sent!

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 9:40 pm 
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Here is a run from last year, I think If I remember right i was Cruising in the beginning part, then i stepped it down and got into it in drive two different times at WOT. What do you guys think?
that was with above carb settings other then i had .063 IBS

Also anywhere locally i could get a O2 weld on bung tomorrow?

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 5:03 am 
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If you would use "Channel Smoothing" on those logs you'd be able to see that a little clearer. I usually go to .74 setting and that gets rid of those big spikes. Click on >Channels then >Smoothing and choose your LC-1. A popup box will appear, probably down at the bottom of the page then using your RIGHT arrow key go to the .74 setting. Then LEFT click the mouse anywhere on that page and that box will disappear and your selected channel will look much better.

Also, if you go up top and click on the plus sign magnifying glass icon then go down to the line that has the time at the bottom of the page and click that twice that will spread the graph out a bit and make it easier to read also.

From what I see there now, you "might" be able to use a little larger MAB but spread that graph out first and see what it looks like then.

I see from your specs that you're using .026 and .025 MABs. I'd venture to guess that you're gonna wind up with MABs between .028/.030 to get rid of that phat dip toward the end of that high gear run. If anything, that needs to go toward the lean side. Keep in mind though that changing those MABs will likely lean the whole curve so you may have to put some jet in it to get the AFRs where you need them.


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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 8:24 am 
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Ken , Thanks for the info on smoothing I had done that before ,but didn't know if that was just making it look better then what was actually going on,lol.. That rich dip at the end, .It seems to happen as soon as i let off the gas on a hard run it would go rich, then go lean. Here is the first part smoothed out with your direction :)

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 9:18 am 
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Yeah that makes it look much better and if you're sure that the phat dip is when you lifted then that looks pretty good. I will add though that "most" dyno operators have found a little bit of power up top by leaning the curve a bit toward the end so if you get into an experimenting mode then you "might" want to try a little more MAB (.001 or .002) once you get the LM-1 setup on the car and to be honest, this might be something better done at the track where you have MPH on the time slip to compare before and after that change. It's hard to feel 4 to 6 HP on the street. ;-)

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 Post subject: Re: 1050 Dominator
 Post Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:50 am 
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Yea I almost positive it is, I got my bung welded on my collector adapter just got to install it now, then hook it up :). The it will be ready for the track tomorrow, so leaning it up top would be the secondary bleeds?

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