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 Post subject: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 11:11 am 
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I decided to put my 9375 back to a 3 circuit so I know I have a go to carb. I put the 80186-1 on the engine with 7320 blocks, BLP boosters and inserts. Previous owner of this carb put a .125 hole in the primary blades and on the wrong side of the shaft.

IFJ .042
TSJ .052
MJ 92
IAB .069
MAB .026

With the T slots square, do I adjust everything else to get it to idle once it's to 150 water temp or can I open the blades a little? If I open the blades, I should open both an equal amount, right?


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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 11:24 am 
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Ron, I close the blades all the way and then start to open them till they just start to move. then mark the speed screw. Do this on P & S speed screws. Then open them to get the square slot of so and then when you need to open them some more you can gauge better to do them both the same amount of turn..
But to answer your question yes you want them as close as possible open the same amount..

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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 1:10 pm 
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So exposing more slot is okay to get it to idle?
I didn't get it warm enough to adjust mixture screws and idle speed yet, but it seems very rich when I hold the pedal steady at 1200. I think the mixture screws are 1 turn out.


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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:23 pm 
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All 4 slots are square and it's way rich at an idle. How far up can I go with the IAB? This is the block I currently have in the carb. It has no kill bleed. It's from a 7320.
Image

This is a block that I can install. I have moved the idle feed to the bottom of this block. I haven't drilled and tapped any of the e-holes.
Image


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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 6:44 pm 
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Ron you need Ken for the answers on those stock blocks. He has worked with them and know the #s that work..

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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 7:48 am 
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Location: Montgomery, Alabama
Get some billet 2 circuit blocks and dont look back. :-$


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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 11:39 pm 
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Scott Smith wrote:
Get some billet 2 circuit blocks and dont look back. :-$

I plugged the top hole on the 80186-1 blocks and put .040 idle jet in them. I'll try them for a few changes and if results aren't good, I'll get some BLP billets.


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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 4:06 pm 
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I went to .075 IAB with the 7320 blocks, .042 IJ. I can keep the R's at 1100 with the pedal. I think if it was as lean as it should be, it wouldn't run down that low without some feathering when it has no temperature. I think Tuner told me I'd be close when I had to feather it to keep it running until warm. I can't try to cover bleeds to see how it acts because I can't get out of the car and keep it running.


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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 4:12 pm 
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If your T-slot is good square or a little more then you may need to drill some holes in the blades..

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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 4:29 pm 
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Thanks Barry

The previous owner drilled a .125 hole in each primary and on the wrong side of the shaft. There aren't any holes in the secondary blades. Should I go with a smaller idle jet? Slots are square.

Can you hold your R's steady at 1200 when you first fire it?


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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 4:43 pm 
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I think the idle jets are fine and think you just need some more air through the blades...
You must be close it you have to feather the gas to keep it running when cold.

My car I have to do the same thing and I have a .042IJ with .070 IAB and after it gets some heat in it
it will Idle at 1100/1200 and when hot it will barely drop any idle when put in gear.. That's what your looking for and yea it's a pain in the a$$ to get that sweet spot..

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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 5:30 pm 
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Mine WILL idle without feathering.

You're at .042 and 540 cubes. I'm at .042 and only 427 cubes.


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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:49 pm 
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I put the 3 emulsion hole blocks (pictured above) in with the top hole blocked. I put the IFJ to .035 with the IAB .075. I can still hold the throttle at one position and have it idle at 11-1200. That's with the idle screws at 1.5 turns out. I guess my next move will be .078 IAB. These are the current numbers.

IFJ .035
TSJ .052
MJ 92
IAB .075
MAB .026

Any help greatly appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:43 pm 
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Ron Tuner liked one Ehole O:) above the fuel level so blocking that upper hole may be an issue.
Here is a pic of my QF blocks. Now these only have 3 Eholes but only the center was plugged and the top one looks like it is about the same height on the block as yours.. I drew a line from where the top ehole is over to the side of the metering block so I can see if it's above the fuel line when it's running with the float height plug out...What size are your eholes??
Image

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running E85
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Best MPH 170.71
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 Post subject: Re: Changed to 80186-1
 Post Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:58 pm 
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Ron here is another pic of the QF block done with center pluged and IJ moved to the
bottom.. And you have a PM
Image

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running E85
Best ET 8.07
Best MPH 170.71
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