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 Post subject: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:35 pm 
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I just bought a 80186-1 from a guy and the damn thing has .125 holes in the primary throttle plates. I've heard of guys plugging them with pop rivets, is that the approved method? Maybe .125 holes isn't so bad if there are only 2. Do you use 2 or 4 when you drill them? I hate the thought of replacing them. I've done it before and wasn't fun.
I plan to make change boosters to make this a 1050. The Holley metering blocks have the idle feed at the top. I've been looking in the conversion sticky, but haven't seen the method to lower it. Billet blocks might be an investment worth looking into.


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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 6:55 pm 
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Taking the screws out isn't that big a deal if you gently grind the threaded end off flush with the shaft to get rid of the bradding. If the screw heads are on the upper side then they will be easier to get to with the banjos/boosters out. New screws are available on fleabay from several sources pretty cheap as are the replacement butterflies.

When drilling is "necessary", it's generally recommended to do all four in the area near (1/4") the idle fuel dump.

Billet blocks used the most are from BLP but I've done two conversions using the Quikfuel blocks with zero problems to date. I think that part number is 34-5 or 35-4?? Something like that. That part number is listed on here somewhere, probably in that 2 circuit conversion thread. If I remember correctly I think I paid around $110 for the pair.

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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 9:16 pm 
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Ken0069 wrote:
Taking the screws out isn't that big a deal if you gently grind the threaded end off flush with the shaft to get rid of the bradding. If the screw heads are on the upper side then they will be easier to get to with the banjos/boosters out. New screws are available on fleabay from several sources pretty cheap as are the replacement butterflies.

When drilling is "necessary", it's generally recommended to do all four in the area near (1/4") the idle fuel dump.

Billet blocks used the most are from BLP but I've done two conversions using the Quikfuel blocks with zero problems to date. I think that part number is 34-5 or 35-4?? Something like that. That part number is listed on here somewhere, probably in that 2 circuit conversion thread. If I remember correctly I think I paid around $110 for the pair.

As I remember it, getting the blades lined up perfectly took some time. I remember that getting the throttle movement to be smooth wasn't easy.

These are drilled away from the idle hole in the bore, toward the center of the carb. Do you know of any carbs that have rivets in them?

I might just use the blocks from my 7320.


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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 11:46 pm 
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Nope, never heard of rivits in those holes? Might work but don't blame me if they come loose. ;-)

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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 11:24 am 
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Ron, I think Tuner has suggested plugging the holes with aluminum rivets. No reason not to try them as a temporary change to see if the holes were actually needed. I personally wouldn't leave them long term, but that's just me.

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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:37 pm 
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Slowpoke wrote:
Ron, I think Tuner has suggested plugging the holes with aluminum rivets. No reason not to try them as a temporary change to see if the holes were actually needed. I personally wouldn't leave them long term, but that's just me.

Yeah, it scares me but I'm sure I've heard of guys doing the pop rivets on a permanent basis.


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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 9:36 pm 
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Rivets will be fine as a temp fix to see if that's what you need, but new blades are cheap.


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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 1:51 pm 
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The metering blocks on this carb have the idle restriction at the top of the block. I see that the recommended placement is at the bottom and guys talk about moving them. Can they be moved on a Holley block or is that a billet block mod only?


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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 3:49 pm 
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They can be done on any block including Holley


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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 6:18 pm 
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This the current block. Do I put a 6/32 plug in at the top where the brass restriction is now? Where do I open the bottom?
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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 6:45 pm 
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Ron - the insert is removed from the top and the hole is left open. The hole directly Below the emulsion area (top hole of the two) gets threaded. The other hole goes directly to the main well and is your source for idle fuel.

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 Post subject: Re: 80186-1
 Post Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:18 pm 
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mslayton wrote:
Ron - the insert is removed from the top and the hole is left open. The hole directly Below the emulsion area (top hole of the two) gets threaded. The other hole goes directly to the main well and is your source for idle fuel.

Thanks Mark, I appreciate it.


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