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 Post Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 8:04 am 
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Mark, I don't have any yet so I was hopeing for some info so I could get the right ones.. :-k

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running E85
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 Post Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 3:58 pm 
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oobob wrote:
Scott, I looked thru all 185 photos which include some nice stuff i might add. Photo #158 shows a main body with the billet boosters like mine, is this the carb you converted to a 2 circuit ?
On another site you had stated  the idle, part throttle and going up on the converter was crisp & clean, Have you gotten a chance to see where your wide open AFR is yet ?

Mark

I'm ready to get this project started just need to order a few items from Mcmaster.

Thanks, Mark


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 Post Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 5:33 pm 
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Ok here goes, the billet blocks i have are setup as follows.
.033 idle jets @ the top of blocks
.028 emulsions 4each side
.028 kill
.144 booster feeds
.053 pvcr
.096 Booster pump feed
.092 lower idle feed

Where do i start? #-o  
I don't plan to use power valves. If you move the idle feed to the bottom do you plug the top ones or leave the .033 jets up there?
I'm assuming you make the intermediate air bleed the new idle bleed.
If so do you plug the original IAB or just leave it be?

Need step by step instructions in 1st grade english please.

Mark


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 Post Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 7:01 pm 
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oobob wrote:
Ok here goes, the billet blocks i have are setup as follows.
.033 idle jets @ the top of blocks
.028 emulsions 4each side
.028 kill
.144 booster feeds
.053 pvcr
.096 Booster pump feed
.092 lower idle feed

Where do i start? #-o  
I don't plan to use power valves. If you move the idle feed to the bottom do you plug the top ones or leave the .033 jets up there?
I'm assuming you make the intermediate air bleed the new idle bleed.
If so do you plug the original IAB or just leave it be?

Need step by step instructions in 1st grade english please.

Mark


Mark,
What carb are we working on?
.144 booster feed? Are you talking about the angle channel?


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 Post Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 7:11 pm 
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This is an 1150 with billet boosters, they look identical to the ones in your photos.   The .144 is the angled channel on the blocks.  I haven't measured the boosters themselves.
If you'll PM me some digits i'll give you a shout,  may be quicker and then i'll post details and results.


Mark


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 Post Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:27 pm 
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Drilling that angle channel (crosswell) out to .159 is probably the hardest thing to do.  You MUST be careful not to let the drill walk toward that kill bleed any more than absolutely necessary.  Before you start drilling, take a drill bit the size of that hole and stick it in there so you can see the approximate angle you need to follow.  Once you're ready, pull the drill bit out and drill out that hole.  Make sure you deburr the kill bleed when you're done but again, be careful not to make it any larger.  

The stake tubes (booster pins) should be .169 ID or very close to that.  Most Dominators use that size for the gas carbs.

On the TSJ, don't tap that hole any deeper than needed just to get the brass set screw to clear the gasket surface.  Try to keep everything as uniform as possible during this process.  The hole in that brass set screw needs to be .052 to .063 depending on your combination.  The idea here is to start lean and add to it as needed.  Mine wound up at .055 if memory serves.  

Once you get the carb on the engine and you find that it's a little lean at part throttle, you can open up the TSJ in small increments until it suits you.  Remember though, that these figures I'm giving you came from my 1050 carb!  I'm assuming that a lot of the idle stuff should be close but TSJs and Jets will likely be larger for a bigger carb.

Oh, one other thing.  Once you go to the 2 circuit block, the IABs will switch over to the intermediate bleed location.  The outer most holes won't have anything in them on the HP carbs and nothing is required to be done to them on the old style carbs.  Old style carbs will likely need to have those old intermediate bleeds drilled out and tapped 10x32 for the set screws.  I would suggest that you use a drill press to drill these if possible.

It’s almost necessary that the T-slots come down to the bottom edge of the closed butterflies.  The 4500’s seem to be random in the quality control of that dimension.

I got lucky on this one as mine is an old style 8896 and was pretty much dead on.  If yours are not, then let me know and we'll address that.


Scottt and Donee, if you see anything wrong with these numbers, please don't hesitate to correct me or at least note where there is a difference from what you have done!


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 Post Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 10:24 pm 
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I'm going to pull my carb apart this weekend and take pics of the stock style 4150 Holley blocks I used, which I assume others will follow with.  

Only problem is jets and TSJs for oobob's 1150.  Since that carbie is about 10% +/- more flow we could likely just use 10% more area in the jet and get close, ya think?  ;-) There's going to be some fine tuning to be done regardless.  Mine was and still is a little on the rich side down track but other than that it is pretty much dead on.  This baseline tuneup was run in a carb at sea level and I'm at 900ft here in Virginia.


Last edited by Ken0069 on Mon Feb 25, 2008 8:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 10:52 pm 
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Ken, Thanks for the direction I wasn't trying to leave you out, I had read on another site where Scott did an 1150 with the billet blocks and after looking through his pics, I saw where his carb had the billet boosters, if thats the one he converted.  Just thought his setup may actually be a little closer to mine also my TSJ's are already in the main body and it has the screw in bleeds but, I haven't measured anything on the carb itself so mine should be relatively simple.

Mark


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 Post Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:13 pm 
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.065 on the TSJ should be close.


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 Post Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 11:50 am 
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This may throw a curve in the mix =;  Measured the stake tubes this morning and there .160 instead of .169 and the current TSJ are .083.


Mark


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 Post Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 12:17 pm 
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.160 stake tubes are fine.

TSJ well you know what to do.


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 Post Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 12:30 pm 
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Mark I just measured a new set of gas stake tubes that I have in a box and the OD on'em is .212  on the small end so if you run a .169 drill in'em that leaves .043 or .0215 wall which should be fine.  If you need a pic of that stake tube let me know and I'll post one for ya.

If you decide to drill'em though, I do think I'd step drill in small increments, like two or three drill sizes if you can.  The first part of that hole should be .169 to begin with, which will help align the drill going in.  I think what happens is when they are pressed in they close down some on the ID on the small end.

Oh, and a little tip on drilling stuff like this.  (drills over 1/8 inch diameter) A brand new drill will bite and makes it harder to do this with finesse.  If you are going to use a new drill, first drill a hole or two in a piece of mild steel to take the new edge off that bit.  They will work much better for this operation than brand new ones.  

You should have seen the set that came out of my alky carb when the last guy worked on it.  They were paper thin on the end that goes into the booster.


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 Post Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:11 pm 
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I'm not sure you could get the chips out of the booster assembly if you drilled that stake tube.


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 Post Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:38 pm 
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Scott no more material than he has to come out probably wouldn't be a problem.  Remember, it's only .009 and in a hole that's only .0045 per side.  

And fellas, these settings, ie, jets and bleeds and such are "starting points" and you'll likely have to do some fine tuning to get where you want to go! ;-)


Last edited by Ken0069 on Mon Feb 25, 2008 8:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:51 pm 
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Had a chance to shoot some pictures.
Sure is hard to get them to turn out. I'm going to have to commender my wifes new camera.  =;

Transfer Slot jet or Transfer Slot Restricter.

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