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 Post subject: Leaker
 Post Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 10:02 am 
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Location: Murfreesboro, tenn
Had a guy call me this morning. He was grinding clearance for a stroker crank on a SBC and went thru to water. Wanted to know all the different ways that people had patched. I told him Hard Block but he wanted others answers. Can I hear every ones best way
racear

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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 10:25 am 
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Hard block won't fix that... It will leak sooner or later..

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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:50 am 
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Reed a local guy friend of mine struck water on an 1184 BowTie block clearancing it for a 4 inch stroke and L-19 rod bolts. This was a brand new block with zero rust and that one held with Hard Block up to about an inch below the freeze plugs. He sold the car with that engine in it over 10 years later.

On mine, which was the same BowTie casting, I didn't hit water but I did cut a wider chamfer on those L-19 bolts to help keep me from doing that. Right now I only got about .050 or slightly less clearance so if it ever spins a bearing I'll be up creek without a paddle.

FYI, after building two of these 434" engines, one BowTie and one Pass block, I won't ever do another one! 3.875 stroke is enough, IMHO! ;-)

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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 12:13 pm 
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Location: Elizabethtown, KY
I know someone that can fix it. Ray can fix anything. 270-358-0934

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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 8:21 pm 
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Location: Shepherdsville, KY
WR169 wrote:
I know someone that can fix it. Ray can fix anything. 270-358-0934


The number I have for Ray is different than that. I think what I have is his cell phone so I won't put that out here on the forum but I'll PM it to anyone that needs it.

RAY'S CRACK REPAIR
3710 CAMPBELLSVILLE RD
Hodgenville, Kentucky 42748

Yeah, Ray is "da man" when it comes to fixing that kind of stuff and it looks like he's about 3 hour drive from Murfreesboro. Ron Owens was very impressed with a BBC block that Ray put the corner back on for the starter.

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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:26 pm 
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I have fixed a few of these over the years. Goodson tools, (sorry for the plug Ken), has some Iron plugs and a tap kit for fixing cracks and different things like this. I use a good epoxy in the threads,... Fill is some inside the hole before the plug goes in. From there I apply more on the out side.

You will need to clearance all this are after everything hardens up. Make sure to give this some time to properly cure before machining. Especially before filling the block.

Make sure you have the clearance in the block you need before doing the repairs. You won't want to do repairs on top of each other. Epoxy on top of everything and do the final clearancing at this time. This is an area where the term "less is more" really applies. But you still need about .060" for everything to swing safely. I've heard of less being ok, as stated in this thread, but I go for .060".

After doing these repairs you'll want to fill the block. Fill it to within an inch or level with the bottom of the water pump holes. Make sure you properly level the deck both ways before filling.

Clear as mud,... right?

Don

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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 8:59 am 
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Chuck If you have the 502 number that is the old one for his old shop, but it still works. I've seen super stock heads in chunks that he has put back together. When I was in there he was working on a block out of a car made in 1911. He had a block out of a funny car that was missing most the block (pictures of the outer wall missing and main web) ready to ship. I saw some patch work on it and said that looks good. He said he didn't do that and it would never leave his shop like that. He showed me what he did then the pictures. Just like new. I was very impressed.

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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:23 am 
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I finally got time to go and look at his mishap. The rods he was using were not strokers of any type and the bolt heads were huge. (He got them at a swap meet) I got him a set of rods and that made it 10 times better. Problem is, he broke thru 4 cylinders at the bottom. Taking a flash light and looking down the water ports, it appears he is close to breaking thru all 8 cylinders. It is so thin that he cannot drill and install locks. He has to use some type filler. It is a SBC 400 stock OEM block, therefore not worth sending out to someone to have it repaired. Fellows I have been there where I had to repair what I had. This kid is in school and working 2 jobs and wants a decent street machine. I want to help him. When I was that age I had no one to help me and I screwed up a lot of s--t. Time to try to help someone from repeating me. Any ides, throw them out. Hey guess what it will make us look sharp. Almost like we know what we are doing. HeHeHe
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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:48 am 
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The 400 block as we all know is a pos...But if that is what he has to work with I would find him another block and start over. In the long run he will be better off with one with no damage... :-$

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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:05 am 
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x2 on what Barry said. The cost of another block will probably be no more than what it's going to cost to "try" to fix this one and "try" is the key word here, ie, repairs might work, then maybe not and he may wind up having to get another block anyway.

On my pump gas 434 that's in the Studebaker now I used a 400 block with a 4" stroke Cola and a set of Carrillo Stroker Rods. I actually had to cut less out of that block than I did in the BowTie but the L-19 bolts in those Eagle Stroker rods had a much larger head though.

If/when I replace those L-19s in that BowTie, I'll probably drop back to the ARP-2000 bolts with the small head. They should work fine in that combo as it seldom sees much over 7600 RPM any more.

RE: Past mistakes? Well, IMHO that's what these boards are suppose to be about, ie, helping others not make the same mistakes we've already made, and believe me, I've made some in the past that no one else has even mentioned on here yet! O:) ;-) Let's just hope that your "understudy" will make good use of the advice you offer him! ;-)

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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:10 am 
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OH, and I'm sure you're already aware of this but if he's going to try to build this thing with more than around 10.5 compression, then it's likely to be a grenade anyway. Mine has a BME .100 DISH piston in it with 76cc chamber heads and it's been together now since back in the early 1990s except for a couple of freshen ups and one spun main bearing because it was running out of oil in the shut down area. That engine went 5.80s in that Camaro I sold on methanol.

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Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.

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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:11 am 
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I broke thru on a 350 block years ago clearancing for alum rods. I welded it up with nickel rod and re-ground til it looked good, then JB welded the inside of the water jacket and then did a half fill of hard-block. It didn't leak and that engine ran for a long time.

But I do agree that a 400 block is a POS.

Rick


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 Post subject: Re: Leaker
 Post Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:16 am 
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Ken0069 wrote:
OH, and I'm sure you're already aware of this but if he's going to try to build this thing with more than around 10.5 compression, then it's likely to be a grenade anyway. Mine has a BME .100 DISH piston in it with 76cc chamber heads and it's been together now since back in the early 1990s except for a couple of freshen ups and one spun main bearing because it was running out of oil in the shut down area. That engine went 5.80s in that Camaro I sold on methanol.



Ken
Last nite I did his comp calcs and it appears he will have about 10.1 compression. This will be a street only motor in a 1967 Chevy II given to him by his Dad for graduation. Heads are a 70 CC Track 1 that has one 2 many valve jobs already. Valves way in the heads. I told him I would freshen up the heads for him. He was trying to lap the valves in by hand and a drill.(hey man, I have done the same thing in my day. I wore out a bunch of Sears 1/4 drills doing very professional porting jobs. If u havent done this, then u are not old enough or you had too much money) He had found (traded out work)a Roller (used) that is monstrous but should fit the bill of "sound good". He came out last night and help me sweep the shop while I worked. When was the last time u saw a kid with a broom.
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