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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 11:52 am 
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axegrinder wrote:
Were you topping the tank off after every round? Maybe your latest batch of fuel is bad?
I had to add quite a bit of gas before I ever started the car and added more well before those rounds.


Checked fuel supply last night and it pumps 1.8gal/min thru the bowls. Pressure was 5.5-6psi (low res gauge) with both floats down and flowing at this rate. I don't think fuel supply is the problem.

Rick


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 5:17 pm 
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1) battery voltage?

2) charging system?

3) Trans front pump? Did you check pressure before you took tranny apart?

Bob


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 10:16 pm 
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What about Cam timing? If it moved you could loose a bunch...

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 12:06 pm 
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scoop wrote:
1) battery voltage?

2) charging system?

3) Trans front pump? Did you check pressure before you took tranny apart?

Bob

I didn't notice or check the battery voltage but it cranked over and started normally before each run. Will check alt output and batt voltage after reassembly.
I run a 75amp alternator and dual Odyssey batteries
I plan to check the pump before reassembly, but I think I'd see some sign of slipping if pressure was low enough to cause this amount of ET loss IMO. My trans expert friend also suggested this.

us7race wrote:
What about Cam timing? If it moved you could loose a bunch...
Checked the Jesel adjuster and it is where I left it when dynoing. Also checked the dot on the cam gear and it hasn't jumped a tooth.

Thanks for all the ideas and keep em coming. I'm planning to put it back together and if all looks well take it to a T&T to see how it runs.

Rick


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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 7:22 pm 
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Ohm check all your plug wires, and coil wire, look at your rotor & cap AGAIN, and look closer. Have you checked the rear end yet? You said you checked tires I think...
Fuel filter/s check them too.
2 cents...

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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:45 pm 
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After tearing the trans apart and putting it back together I still hadn't found anything. So it all went back together. I started it up and it sounded ok and I was thinking of going racing this weekend. Today I started it and ran it longer and started hearing a knocking noise. [-(

Took the pan off and 7&8 rod bearings were seizing/spinning. The bottom of the pan had plenty of metal glitter. Not sure why it wasn't in the filter or visible in the oil before. Guess I'm done for the year with that engine.

Rick


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:00 pm 
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Well at least you found it before you scattered it. It is odd that with that kind of damage you didn't see any in the filter. Did you cut open the 2nd filter to see if anything showed up in that one? Maybe the filter was bypassing.

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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:06 pm 
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DAYUMN? Sorry to hear that Rick as I know you put a lot of thought, work and money in that bottom end with nothing but the best parts??? I'm with Chuck too as I can't believe that there was no metal in that filter or the oil. :-k At least it didn't come apart before you found it.

Next question is why? 7 & 8 aren't the ones that usually suffer from lack of oil nor are they usually the first to detonate? :-k

An on another note, didn't you have some oiling problems in the shut down area before you installed that accumulator? I know it's been a while since you put that thing on the car but that's the only thing I can think of that might have caused this. :-k

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 6:53 am 
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Well guys looks like this mayhem is going around as I am not to happy with what my oil
is looking like O:) ...A lot of fuzz on the drain magnet and sparkles in the oil.. :- ](*,)

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 12:40 pm 
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I wouldn't be too concerned with the "fuzz" on the magnet as I've never pulled mine out that it didn't have that crap on it.

As for the sparkles that are in the oil, there's nothing like the piece of mind you get from LOOKING at bearings. :-k When they're OK you get that warm and fuzzy feeling all over! ;-)

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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 12:52 pm 
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Barry, hope nothing is wrong there but I'm with Ken on the "fuzz" (normal) and the "sparkles"(not) . Now would be a good time to look at things. Wish I'd pulled my pan sooner and I'd have saved quite a few bucks on the new 9qts of Mobil 1 and filter.

Still thinking about WHY it happened as this engine has been together for 4 yrs. If clearances or some other issue during assembly was wrong it should have showed up a lot sooner than this. hmmm :-k

The engine is out and on the stand for dis-assembly. Will be deciding in the next few weeks where to go from here some of it depending on what needs replaced. Right now I'm thinking using my 18º heads that have been sitting unused for a while with flat-tops and maybe E85.

Rick


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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 2:08 pm 
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4 YEARS??? O:) Doesn't seem like it's been that long cuz my engine just passed 4 years this past summer? :-k

I'm with ya on the clearances thingie. Those type problems usually manifest themselves early on.

Re: 18* with flat tops? That's still likely to be around 13.5 isn't it? Remember that jmark's brother has an SB2 that's running E85 @ 14.5 to 1. :-k My engine, which is 15.2 to 1 seems to be happy with C12 when it's on gas and I've wondered about whether it would work with E85. jmark also has an SB2 that he's going to put back in his dragster that's up @ 15.5 to 1 and he's going to "try" to run E85 in that. If he can make it work, then I'm probably going to try it in mine as my methanol sources are drying up and the price has gone through the roof @ $3.15 a gallon now and will probably be higher than that next year. Just a thought.

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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 2:14 pm 
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I would rather pay 3 bucks a gallon than what Im paying not for race gas at 10 bucks a gallon O:)

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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 2:21 pm 
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Rick and others I have had my oil tested in the past and iron is usually around 10 to 18 on the PPM scale..Well the last oil change showed at 78 with 19 runs on the oil and this time with less than 10 runs on it it's showing 102 ppm..No bearing material showing up in the test at all but Aluminum is also high at 85ppm and that is usually about 12 to 20 depending on how old the motor is or new showing up a little high then goes down from there..
We will see when I get time to pull it out.......

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 Post Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 12:52 pm 
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Ken0069 wrote:
4 YEARS??? O:) Doesn't seem like it's been that long cuz my engine just passed 4 years this past summer? :-k

Time flies when your havin fun (or when you get old). I guess I raced it during 4 seasons, but not 4 full seasons. It was in the roadster for 2008/2009 mostly with secondaries unhooked to keep it legal w/o cert. The engine was built in 2008 and ran it a couple times that Fall and then raced it in 2009 all year and pulled it out at season end to dyno it ~25 pulls then it went in the dragster for the start of 2010 and raced it in 2010/2011 when work allowed. I never took the bottom end apart during that time.

I'll probably open the chambers up to keep it at 13:1. I don't want to run race gas so it'll be avgas or e85. 13:1 should be good with either.

On another note I took the engine apart yesterday for a look. ALL of the bearings look like crap. There isn't any bearing half (uppers, lowers, mains or rods) that I would reuse. Not sure what caused this. I'll try to get some pics to post.

Rick


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