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 Post Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 7:00 pm 
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jakesz28 wrote:
Thanks for the comparison. I'm new here but I think I have some reading to do. I'm currently talking to a guy about buying his sb2.2 heads for the next build. Is there anything I really need to know before I get them?

Thanks Mike


Yeah, I'd be looking for a race team in NASCAR to get them from since all the Nationwide cars will have the RO7 engine next year too.  There should be a ton of those heads on the market, and soon!  If it were me, I think I'd invest in a couple of phone calls to see if you could find some at RCR, Hendricks or one of the other Chevy shops down in the Mooresville/Charlotte, Nc area.  

If you can't find anything let me know and I may be able to give you a name of someone that use to deal in that stuff and he may still have contacts.

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 Post Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 7:26 pm 
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Does the name Ron Hutter mean anything to you? I was told he is the one that did the port work on the heads I'm looking at. I will have some numbers from them soon. But I was told alot of thes are ported rather large and like to work in a specific rpm range. These heads were ment to be for a shorter track and like a broader rpm range. I hope the person I'm talking to isn't just a good sales men.


Thanks Mike

For any infoe you can offer.

EDIT I should have checked on that name a couple days ago I guess he has his own shop.


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 Post Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 8:35 pm 
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Jake, the SB2's can be all over the place depending on what they were for. What size engine do you plan to run them on, and the weight of the car as well as what class and expected HP/ET? The 447 I run has MM cup reworked heads, Curtis/RFD is doing the heads for my 460. A decent set of takeoffs should be touched up for drag racing by someone that knows them.


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 Post Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 8:40 pm 
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Here is Weld Techs site, scroll down to the SB2's, look at the flow #'s. Obviously older programs, but close to the heads out there unless you are real lucky.


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 Post Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 9:04 pm 
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I'm just beginning of looking at this stuff so I need to find some info on the aftermarket blocks that are out there but I want to do a 434 possibly. If I'm not mistaken a 4" stroke and a bore of 4.155 or a little more. I want to have a thick cylinder wall with a deck height of 9.35 to 9.5. I just want to make sure that the piston is a little better then my current setup. I got some research to do before I go to far along on this. But the heads I found seem like a good price. I got more in my 23* junk. But you live and learn. I should have got some 18* stuff last year.

I don't really run any type of class. I just got back in to this last year and before that it was only street stuff. But with the current motor I plan on giving it 350hp in two stages and trying to set a new nitrous powered factory LT 1 block record. Which is 9.04 @ 155. So the sb2.2 is going to require a 25 something cage and possibly mid eights or a little less. Maybe some 8.5 index races. A friend of mine that I want to stay ahead of has a lighter car and made 730hp on the motor and is going to give it 300hp. That is a 514 dodge. So I will need about 1250 total if I cant get the car below 3400. His is about 2800 lbs.

Hopefully I'm not rambling to much.


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 Post Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 9:59 pm 
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Never mind.  Comments withdrawn!  O:)   I'm always assuming that us bracket racers don't have deep enough pockets to afford all that tall deck stuff that requires custom built everything.  I guess there are some among us that aren't "poor folks" hey!  ;-)

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Last edited by Ken0069 on Tue Dec 02, 2008 10:34 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 10:30 pm 
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To go to a 9.325 iron block you need an Iron Eagle, I have a 447 SB2 in the car now with that block. Spread pan rails, raised cam, and some grinding on the bottom of the cylinders. 9.5 is an aluminum block. 434 will be fine in an Iron Eagle.
How good is the price on the heads? I have some e-bay takeoffs I paid under $1000 for, I plan to put together a spare with junk I have laying around. The other issue is the cup heads can only be opened so far, they generally remove excess material around the ports limiting how much they can be opened up. One thing to look at is the casting date on the heads, it will give you an idea how old the head is. 05 and later should be a better port as long as it was not a restrictor plate head.


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 Post Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 10:32 pm 
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If your going to run N20 it takes a ton of compression height.
Talk to CP before you make a decision on bore and stroke.
The intake valve pocket gets deep into the ring land. Plus your 4.155 will make it worse.

I would go 4.165 at a minimum with a 2.180 valve. It will require the first ring be down around .300  O:)
Exhaust valve is not a problem. I don't even have a exhaust pocket.


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 Post Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 5:44 am 
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I have to get ready for work now so I will have to come back to this later. But It looks like I found the right place for info on this subject.

That is about the same info I found on the aftermarket blocks and deck height. So 9.325 is the tallest aftermarket iron block? I was diffeenitly going to go for spread pan rails and a raised cam location w/larger bores. I don't have a problem going to a larger bore in the cylinder. I will need to find a knowledgabe piston guy to see what is recommended. I have seen some heavier forged pistons melt by the intake valve relief so I need to see what is the largest stroke crank and longest rod that I can get a piston to survive at.


Thanks Mike


Last edited by jakesz28 on Tue Dec 02, 2008 6:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 10:27 am 
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9.325 Dart is the tallest I know of in an iron block, Darts cast aluminum block is 9.500 max, I have both. Dart and a couple others make billet blocks if you want more, if you have a truckload of cash laying around. CP and JE both have a lot of experience in pistons for SB2's, be sure to let them know your plans to spray it. The SB2 can be a little more sensitive to nitrous, another reason to send the heads to someone to work them. You can also search SB2's on ST, a lot of valuable info over there as well.


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 Post Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 3:16 pm 
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When I was designing my pistons for a low dosage of spray I worked with Ric at CP.
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 Post Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 7:07 pm 
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Ken0069 wrote:
Never mind.  Comments withdrawn!  O:)   I'm always assuming that us bracket racers don't have deep enough pockets to afford all that tall deck stuff that requires custom built everything.  I guess there are some among us that aren't "poor folks" hey!  ;-)



I'm not rich but what else can you do in the winter? Here its time for 70 hour work weeks and then it goes into the race funds.


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 Post Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 7:13 pm 
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Talking to the person with the heads he seemed like they were a good set for drag racing but didn't have the flow numbers or chamber sizes. He is taking them in to get some info for me. He actualy works for the guy that did the port work on them. He wants 1300 for them and says there ready to run other then springs but if I get that set I will have someone check them out first. I think the dart iron block is around 2500. I will be selling the curent set up to off set the price some when I get serious about this. I hope to get more info on these heads later this week or early next week.


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 Post Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 10:04 pm 
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Just started grinding deep chunks of aluminum today, rod clearance on the aluminum block. Looks like a little rod grinding as well, even with a spread pan rail and raised cam. Cam bore is for 55mm babbitt or 50mm roller, looks like I'm going roller for clearance. 4.25 stroke on a small block is soooo much fun... :- , but I hope the end results is. \:D/


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 Post Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 10:59 am 
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Good luck with that Mark. I just dont feel that big arm is an advantage without a big bore to go with it.

Just like the 434s I always outrun with a 406.

I think a 421 or a 422 is a sweet combo for a SB2.2. Plus I already went through the combo learning curves. :D


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