Login    Forum    Search    FAQ

Board index » Racing Forum » General Topics




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Valve Adjustment
 Post Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 12:54 pm 
Offline

Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 3:31 pm
Posts: 46
Location: Albertville,MN
So just so I understand this correctly. Exhaust Start to open you set the intake. And just before the intake closes you set the exhaust?


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 1:08 pm 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:38 am
Posts: 11804
Location: Coming At Ya!
Yeah that'll work, along with some other methods! One thing to remember on this is that they usually DON'T get TIGHTER! At least not after you get some runs on a new engine. If you find one that is tight, bump the engine some and check it again before you go loosening it up. And also remember to log the ones you have to tighten up! Do that each time you adjust them and if you see one that is continually getting loose, start looking for potential problems!

Lets go smell some smoke! I'm outta here \:D/

_________________
Big Boyz Toyz!

Image

Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.

William Pitt, British Prime-Minister (1759-1806)


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Valve Adjustment
 Post Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 4:05 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:03 am
Posts: 1444
Superpro wrote:
So just so I understand this correctly. Exhaust Start to open you set the intake. And just before the intake closes you set the exhaust?


Not " just before the intake closes " ...

But " As soon as the intake starts to close "

Exhaust JUST starts tp open adjust the Intake

The Intake JUST starts to close adjust the Exhaust


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:41 pm 
 
yea what Dcar and Ken said

It really helped me out, and find that is the easiest way for me =D> =D>

Mitch


Top 
  
 
 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:43 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 9:54 pm
Posts: 1619
Location: Western Illinois
I wouldn't want to confuse anyone, but I've tryed this and still like my way better. When I degree in the cam, I make a few extra marks on the harmonic balancer. Top dead center, and every 90 degrees. Also total spark advance with a couple 2 degree marks beside it. Turn crank to TDC. It will be number one or half way threw firing order, number is depending on ford chev or mopar. Check both valves on the TDC piston and go another 90 degrees and get next in firing order. Two turns of the crank and your done. and engine is still hot. I use a big ratchet and turn off the front bolt. You can also use these 90 degree marks to do your leak down test. if you need to. If you wait till the engine cools, so you don't burn fingers you lost the hot valve setting. A bit of trivia, back in the day diggers didn't have starters, and you timed them off that advance mark with a breaker bar and a beeper in your ear, conected to number one plug wire. Just turn distributer in the ooposite direction of rotor with advance mark on pointer provided advance is locked all in. Still very accurat for starting engne first time. Eliminates the poping and banging and wondering if your 180 off. most times they don't have to be reset even. If you have an initial advance you need another mark. Dennis

_________________
Older I get the less I know for sure Dennis


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:11 pm 
 
Bubstr wrote:
I wouldn't want to confuse anyone, but I've tryed this and still like my way better. When I degree in the cam, I make a few extra marks on the harmonic balancer. Top dead center, and every 90 degrees. Also total spark advance with a couple 2 degree marks beside it. Turn crank to TDC. It will be number one or half way threw firing order, number is depending on ford chev or mopar. Check both valves on the TDC piston and go another 90 degrees and get next in firing order. Two turns of the crank and your done. and engine is still hot. I use a big ratchet and turn off the front bolt. You can also use these 90 degree marks to do your leak down test. if you need to. If you wait till the engine cools, so you don't burn fingers you lost the hot valve setting. A bit of trivia, back in the day diggers didn't have starters, and you timed them off that advance mark with a breaker bar and a beeper in your ear, conected to number one plug wire. Just turn distributer in the ooposite direction of rotor with advance mark on pointer provided advance is locked all in. Still very accurat for starting engne first time. Eliminates the poping and banging and wondering if your 180 off. most times they don't have to be reset even. If you have an initial advance you need another mark. Dennis


For some reason Dennis I'm totally in a fog on that method :-k :-k

I tell ya I'm so ignorant sometimes #-o #-o #-o

I do set it like that when I fire up my engine the first time ( rotro pointing to #1 spark plug wire with it at TDC and fires every time)

One thing for me I can't get a ratchet on my balancer bolt in-front anyway
so I just have to bump it with a remote start I put on my selenoid that remote start cost me 14 bucks at AutoZone =D> just me and my machine.


Top 
  
 
 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:40 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 9:54 pm
Posts: 1619
Location: Western Illinois
mgainer wrote:
Bubstr wrote:
I wouldn't want to confuse anyone, but I've tryed this and still like my way better. When I degree in the cam, I make a few extra marks on the harmonic balancer. Top dead center, and every 90 degrees. Also total spark advance with a couple 2 degree marks beside it. Turn crank to TDC. It will be number one or half way threw firing order, number is depending on ford chev or mopar. Check both valves on the TDC piston and go another 90 degrees and get next in firing order. Two turns of the crank and your done. and engine is still hot. I use a big ratchet and turn off the front bolt. You can also use these 90 degree marks to do your leak down test. if you need to. If you wait till the engine cools, so you don't burn fingers you lost the hot valve setting. A bit of trivia, back in the day diggers didn't have starters, and you timed them off that advance mark with a breaker bar and a beeper in your ear, conected to number one plug wire. Just turn distributer in the ooposite direction of rotor with advance mark on pointer provided advance is locked all in. Still very accurat for starting engne first time. Eliminates the poping and banging and wondering if your 180 off. most times they don't have to be reset even. If you have an initial advance you need another mark. Dennis


For some reason Dennis I'm totally in a fog on that method :-k :-k

I tell ya I'm so ignorant sometimes #-o #-o #-o

I do set it like that when I fire up my engine the first time ( rotro pointing to #1 spark plug wire with it at TDC and fires every time)

One thing for me I can't get a ratchet on my balancer bolt in-front anyway
so I just have to bump it with a remote start I put on my selenoid that remote start cost me 14 bucks at AutoZone =D> just me and my machine.
You got it, except on the at timing adv. mark it's dead on time.

_________________
Older I get the less I know for sure Dennis


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:59 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:04 pm
Posts: 1118
Location: Near a blender!
Bubstr wrote:
Top dead center, and every 90 degrees.


I tried this way the last time I did my valves and I'll never go back to the other way. It was so easy even a rookie like me figured it out. And as mentioned it was so quick the engine was still hot when completed.

MM

_________________
Best 1/4 mile time (dead hook) = 31.32 @ 28mph!!!  (I'm in better shape now!)


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Thu Apr 20, 2006 11:21 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:03 am
Posts: 1444
Bubstr wrote:
A bit of trivia, back in the day diggers didn't have starters, and you timed them off that advance mark with a breaker bar and a beeper in your ear, conected to number one plug wire. Just turn distributer in the ooposite direction of rotor with advance mark on pointer provided advance is locked all in. Still very accurat for starting engne first time. Eliminates the poping and banging and wondering if your 180 off. most times they don't have to be reset even. If you have an initial advance you need another mark. Dennis


We still use a " Buzz Box for setting initial timing with a magneto .. basically the same deal

If I get a balancer that isnt marked every 90* I mark it that way and will adjust the valves using those marks and the firing order if at the track.

But on all my fresh builds / rebuilds I always use the ICEO method, also if I have plenty of time.

One thing I havent notice anyone say when discussing this is .. whenever I have had a valve out by .004" .005" or more it has always ended up being a bad lifter ( if rollers ) and is a good sign to change them.


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
 Post Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:16 am 
 
DCarr wrote:
Bubstr wrote:
A bit of trivia, back in the day diggers didn't have starters, and you timed them off that advance mark with a breaker bar and a beeper in your ear, conected to number one plug wire. Just turn distributer in the ooposite direction of rotor with advance mark on pointer provided advance is locked all in. Still very accurat for starting engne first time. Eliminates the poping and banging and wondering if your 180 off. most times they don't have to be reset even. If you have an initial advance you need another mark. Dennis


We still use a " Buzz Box for setting initial timing with a magneto .. basically the same deal

If I get a balancer that isnt marked every 90* I mark it that way and will adjust the valves using those marks and the firing order if at the track.

But on all my fresh builds / rebuilds I always use the ICEO method, also if I have plenty of time.

One thing I havent notice anyone say when discussing this is .. whenever I have had a valve out by .004" .005" or more it has always ended up being a bad lifter ( if rollers ) and is a good sign to change them.


Oh baby!! 10-4 on that \:D/

I'll be looking for that sign for sure

Mitch


Top 
  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 

Board index » Racing Forum » General Topics


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests

 
 

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron