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 Post Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 7:33 pm 
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I am thinking about a switch to E85 after finding out I was burning E10 anyway and this forum has made me think about a possible switch. I have a few questions to help me decide. Also trying to decide if I want to buy one or build one.

I have a 9375 Dominator now that I don't want to change over (so I can go back if I desire) so I would need to start from scratch with an E85 carb. What is the best route to take to build one from scratch and what tools are needed?

My engine is built for pump-gas 92 octane gasoline (ie 10.8:1), how will E85 run with that compression? Would I need to add any compression? a half point compression? (mill heads) or would it need a few points more (new pistons)?

Planning to buy O2 system to go along with the data recorder for next year and curious what people's experiences have been with theirs?

Rick


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 Post Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 12:09 am 
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First thing would be to look for a suitable core. The cheapest I see are the 750 Dominators, since you have to pull the booster pins anyway you can get some new banjo's with small or no skirts, booster inserts, and pins. They will also already be a 2 circuit, one less thing to deal with. The metering blocks should be fine with an angle channel mod, but I would pull a mainwell plug to check the size. I think the 850 blocks I got for a 2 circuit conversion already had around a .160 bottom and around .180 at the entrance to the angle channel which is fine. I'm going to experiment with e-bleeds, but I think two smaller or only 1 will be enough from what I've seen. If you want billet, mine are 2 circuit BLP blocks and the only thing I did was to go to .175 on the angle channels, and put the idle feed restriction at the bottom. For tools pretty much the same as the 2 circuit conversions, a tap set and a small and large drill index, and McMaster Carr brass set screws. Mine will take a bit to get everything sorted out, the Racepak won't go on till probably after Christmas, so I'll be doing what I can when I get time to run it the old fashion way, reading plugs as much as I can and working jetting, timing, and then messing with bleeds. I have new O2 sensors on the way for my FAST O2 meter, I hope it improves the reading until I get the Racepak on it. Also picked up some projected nose plugs today, see if they help any.

As far as compression and gains... your guess is as good as mine, but anything you can add to compression should help. I think I might be a little disadvantaged for gains, having some grat working 2 circuit gas Dominators to go up against. I should have a little more data after Wednesday as long as the weather is clear here.

The only other thing would be to make sure your fuel system is up to supplying the added fuel needed, having the tank in front of the engine in a dragster is a plus. Being a moderator if I can help with parts let me know, I get a little discount from BLP on all their stuff. It would be nice to have some comparisons going on.


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 Post Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:35 pm 
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Ok, I've looked around and can't find where they sell the carb body/center. Do you use Holley brand or Proform? or ??? Who sells them? Or just buy the complete 750 Dominator and buy aftermarket boosters? Who sells boosters?

What about removing and installing the boosters ... what tools are needed for that?

Rick


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 Post Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 6:12 pm 
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Rick he's probably talking about finding something like this and keep in mind that this guy has put a "Best Offer" deal on this along with his "Buy It Now" price. I like these used up looking carbs that ppl think aren't worth much. The only thing that actually wears out is the throttle shafts or bushings. I'd be tempted to make him an offer on it myself if you don't!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holley-S ... ccessories

The straight banjos and boosters are available from BLP and other Holley suppliers. If you want boosters that aren't drilled then BLP is probably your best bet. If this is indeed a 750 Dominator then the metering blocks are probably decent and can be used if you don't want to spend money on billet stuff. Me, I'd be a little apprehensive about drilling and tapping in aluminum if you got no way to repair the anodized coating, which protects if from corrosion. I put a raw aluminum AN fitting in a methanol system one time for about a week and man, that stuff ate it up bad.

You can pull the stake tubes out by tapping the ID and a small bolt but that will render them useless. Might also be able to use a large sheet metal screw. New tubes aren't that expensive. In fact, the last set of banjos I bought had the stake tubes with'em. Don't know how others put them in but a small stepped shaft to somewhat match the ID of the stake tube would do the job.

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 Post Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 10:25 pm 
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Yes, my point was to find a cheap Dominator to work with, the 750's are cheap cause most don't know you can change the boosters and banjo's, do a little metering fixing, and have a great carb that flows 1050. It can be either an earlier non HP or an HP carb, the non HP requires a little more work. Unless you can get someone to mill the steps off the old banjo's replacement banjo's have to be ground down on the sides of the pin end to fit the older casting as they don't make the old banjo's any more. Air bleeds have to be tapped to use replaceable bleeds. So the HP's are a little easier to do, just depends on how much you want to spend on the core. BLP sells any part you need including new bodies if you want, they also sell a "Builders Kit", all the parts needed to put one together with your specs on which parts to use. Which bowls, N&S, floats, etc... all can be set up to your specs. Just let me know if I can help with anything, I can even cut up some booster inserts like I did on mine, and open a set of booster pins to the right diameter. And I'll be adding to my thread momentarily...


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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:32 am 
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Rick did you make an offer on that 750 Dominator on fleabay? Let me know cuz if you didn't or are not interested then I am. ;-)

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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 2:38 pm 
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Ken0069 wrote:
Rick did you make an offer on that 750 Dominator on fleabay? Let me know cuz if you didn't or are not interested then I am. ;-)


No, I didn't and don't plan to. Still deciding my plan. I did see another one that already had screw in bleeds etc that I was thinking about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.c0.m619&item=130455194943&viewitem=&category=133205

No pricing on any of the parts at BLP, I guess you have to call for that. I am leaning toward buying one already built, due to the list of other projects I need to do this Winter. It looks like this could be time consuming.

Rick


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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 4:31 pm 
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rick360 wrote:
No pricing on any of the parts at BLP, I guess you have to call for that. I am leaning toward buying one already built, due to the list of other projects I need to do this Winter. It looks like this could be time consuming.

Rick


Mark can get you the parts you need from BLP and he has stated that he will give you his discount price. And besides that, it's much more fun learning to do it yourself. I realize that time is limited but it's not like you HAVE to have this carb ready next spring since you already have one you are running now. It's your money and time though and like you told me not too long ago, you're going to do it your way no matter what I say, right! =;

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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 4:53 pm 
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Get one and do your own thing, smooth all the corners, port all the passages, learn about it yourself. Cause none of the ones sold by the biggies work correctly. I have explained in other posts about the differences of Ethanol to other alcohols and gasoline. They just dont get it, so why bother buying their product. Your going to modify it and get it better yourself anyway so just do it that way from the start.


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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 10:47 pm 
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I have one if you want it just let me know..


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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 10:54 pm 
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gregory wrote:
I have one if you want it just let me know..


Have one what? :-k

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 Post Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:10 pm 
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Ken0069 wrote:
gregory wrote:
I have one if you want it just let me know..


Have one what? :-k

HA HA HA HA HA


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 Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 12:09 am 
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750 dominator


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 Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 12:30 am 
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gregory ... PM sent.

shrinker wrote:
Get one and do your own thing, smooth all the corners, port all the passages, learn about it yourself. Cause none of the ones sold by the biggies work correctly. I have explained in other posts about the differences of Ethanol to other alcohols and gasoline. They just dont get it, so why bother buying their product. Your going to modify it and get it better yourself anyway so just do it that way from the start.


I wouldn't buy one from a big company, if I buy one it would probably be from Eric68 since I have read good reviews from some of his customers. If I had to buy a new carb to start with it costs nearly as much as having one built after buying the new parts.

Does ethanol harm un-anodized aluminum? My tank is sheet aluminum. Will it affect the carb internals if left bare after drilling etc?

Rick


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 Post Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 3:03 am 
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i have a very good 80186 carb for Rick,however at some stage i have taken the metering blocks off and stored them with lots of others.
Can anyone tell me the numbers that they would have on the top of them so i can match them up to send him a complete unmolestered carb?
Cheers..


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